In the 20 years I’ve been testing new recipes out on long-suffering friends and family, this has most surprised and delighted my critics. I mention this because this exquisitely smooth, luxurious ice cream doesn’t fit the ‘quick and easy” mould of many contemporary recipes. 

Patience in the kitchen has never been my own forte, but on a gloomy winter’s day, devoting fifteen or twenty minutes to patiently cooking a perfect custard has proved to be calming, Zen-like experience. I promise, your efforts will be rewarded by surprised and delighted diners. Served with my lemon olive oil cake it’s a sublime combination.

Be sure to use a mild, fruity extra virgin olive oil, without any bitterness - ideally from Arbequina olives. I’ve had great success using supermarket brand “best” Spanish unfiltered extra virgin, or branded oil labelled “Early Harvest (Arbequina).” 

Method:

• Choose a heavy-based saucepan large enough to hold all the ingredients when two-thirds full. If your pan isn’t non-stick, rinse with water (this helps prevent the milk sticking).

• Put the milk and cream into the empty pan, and heat, stirring spatula, just until it starts to boil, the immediately remove from the heat and leave to cool.

• Put the egg yolks, sugar and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk or use handheld beaters to beat on high speed for 3-4 minutes until pale, thick and triple its original volume. Reduce speed to medium-low and drizzle in olive oil until well mixed, stopping the mixer occasionally to scrape down the sides of your bowl with a spatula.

• Pour or ladle about half the hot milk mixture until a jug. With your mixture on low speed, very gradually add this hot milk to the egg mixture until evenly mixed. 

• Gradually pour this mixture onto the remaining milk and cream in the pan (off the heat), stirring all the time.

• Rinse out your mixing bowl and fill to the brim with cold water. Return the pan to medium-low heat and cook, stirring regularly. Once it starts to steam, stir constantly, paying particular attention to bottom and sides of the pan where the mixture is mostly likely to overheat. 

• Cook until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of your spatula, 8-10 minutes. (Be patient and resist the temptation to increase the heat to speed up the process). The bubbles on the surface will disappear as the custard “takes” and you will be able to see the trail of your spatula on the top as you stir it. (If you happen to have a instant read or infrared thermometer, the ideal temperature is about 80C/175F.) 

• Remove the pan from the heat and coax the custard into a container (I use an empty ice cream carton, then carefully float the container in the cold water to cool the custard down quickly. Cover with a lid and chill for 2 hours and up to 2 days for the flavour to develop before churning or freezing. 

• For the best texture, pour the chilled mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer's directions, then transfer to a freezer-safe container, cover with a lid, and freeze for up to 5 days until needed. 

• Without an ice cream maker, transfer the chilled mixture to a freezer-safe container and freeze for 2 hours, then stir vigorously and leave to freeze until needed.

• Remove from the freezer 20 minutes before serving to soften slightly, then scoop into bowls and drizzle each serving with a dash of the extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of flaked sea salt. 

judirose