Jewish delis across North America serve up this savoury jumble of fried meat and potatoes. In America, the meat of choice is typically deli-style pastrami or salt beef, while Canadian delis use smoked meat. Either way, it is delicious, and even better topped with a poached or fried egg. Meat lovers can increase the pastrami-to-potato ratio as desired.

Recipe adapted from The Jewish Cookbook (Phaidon)

• Bring a large saucepan filled with water to a boil over high heat. Add the potato pieces and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender but not falling apart, 8–10 minutes. Drain well.
• Meanwhile, in a large frying pan, heat 4 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat.
• Add the onion, bell pepper, garlic and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 10 minutes.
• Reduce the heat under the frying pan to medium. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, the cooked potatoes, salt, and a generous amount of pepper.
• Cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are golden brown, 8–10 minutes.
• Add the pastrami and cook, stirring occasionally, until warmed through, 2–3 minutes.
• Remove from the heat and serve hot, sprinkled with chives.