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Rise and shine - Menorca sparkles as a tiny holiday destination

Move over Mallorca - the Balearic sun shines first over its fellow island of Menorca.

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Unlike its Balearic siblings, Mallorca and Ibiza, Menorca isn't party central. But don't get the wrong idea - there's plenty to do at night-time on this tiny island, half the size of Hertfordshire and just 47km from end to end. Yet with 216km of coastline there are plenty of beaches. The most unspoiled, Cavalleria at the north of the island, is a bit of a schlepp but the clear blue sea, white sand and room to breathe is worth it. On the west coast, Es Grau, next to the National Park, S'Albufera des Grau, is a tiny seaside resort almost lost in time. Shallow waters make it a perfect spot for children and the national park means it cannot be developed so it will never become a high-rise hell.

Restaurants in the capital, Mahon, are plentiful, but they don't get busy for dinner until most of us are tucked up in bed. And the chic club Cova d'en Xoroi, set in caves hollowed out in the cliff side at Cala en Porter, is a lovely spot for sunset cocktails.We managed to snag a table on one of the terraces for mojitos and a seagull's-eye view of the sun sinking behind the cliffs to the sounds of Balearic beats. Posters saythis is the first sunrise in Spain thanks to its eastern position.

Dotted around are several Stonehenge-like stone structures created by settlers who came from mainland Spain in the Bronze Age. They are due to become a Unesco site.

During the day we kayaked along the coast and lazily paddled to an almost deserted island with clear, fish-filled water, white sand and a smattering of picnicking nudists.

We spotted indigenous lizards -the emblem of Menorca. Most were wiped out by invading Italian lizards, but a few remain, saved only by their isolation. Sociable and enchanting, the tiny, dark-green lizards came to check us out.

Fact box

Stay: Barceló Hamilton - see Hotel of the Week review
Fly: Monarch flies to Mahon from several UK airports during the summer season from £83.98 return; on-board meals from £6.99.
More info: www.menorca.es

Mahon (or Mao as it's known locally) has the largest natural harbour in the Mediterranean. The former fish market has been redeveloped and although it still offers a few fish stalls, half has been given over to tapas bars and artisan food sellers. Incidentally, leather is one of the three main local industries -the other two are tourism and cheese. So don't go home without a pair of Monorcan slippers; they come many colours and finishes - a sequinned pair caught my eye.

I was utterly smitten with the island. Don't rush, though - I want it to stay just the way it is.

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