closeicon
Travel

Angouleme: The comic capital

The French city is not simply a hot spot for comic collectors. With its rich history of visual arts there's far more than first meets the eye.

articlemain

Being something of a comic book geek (understatement of the century) the thought of a trip to the art haven of Angoulême, named the International City of Comics and Image, had me swimming in a sea of Aquaman back issues.

But the French city is not simply a hot spot for comic collectors, with its rich history of visual arts, there's far more than first meets the eye.

For starters, there are the murals, everywhere you look. Driving in, we could catch sneaky peeks of them between buildings and down alleys, sometimes small on street corners or postboxes and sometimes plastered over the face of three-storey buildings.

So a proper walk through the city to take in all 23 painted murals is a must. There is a full trail to follow, with a map showing the best spots available from the tourist office, itself set in the 19th-century town hall. Still featuring two turrets from the medieval castle that previously stood on this spot, there are lovely gardens outside, where you can sit and plan your route.

My own must-see mural, La Fille des Remparts (The Girl at the Ramparts), was only 10 minutes walk away. Huge and beautiful, it plays with perspective in such a way that you feel you're glimpsing Angoulême's past.

Painted by Max Cabanes in 2004, this 120-metre square mural shows a young girl in Victorian garb leaning on the actual rampart that runs through the painting and out into the city itself. Not far from the town's open market, it's the perfect place to pull out a sketchbook, bottle of Orangina and some fresh pastries and lose an hour or two - if you're anything like me, at least.

Further on the rue Hergé is home to a bust of Tintin creator Hergé, sculpted by his friend and fellow artist Chang Chong-jen in 1989. A return favour perhaps as Chong-jen had inspired a character in Hergé's own work The Blue Lotus 45 years earlier.

But this is only the start. Head to the Charente river for the Musée de la Bande Dessinée (The Museum of Comics), which is just as great for the uninitiated as the well-versed comic fan. Holding over 8,000 original drawings from a mixture of French and international artists, there's a constant rotation of exhibitions and visiting artists, plus lending library and cinema, ensuring you'll always find something interesting to see and do here.

It's almost impossible to escape the incredible shop without buying something. A great place to revisit old classics - who can say no to the adventures of Tintin, Snowy and Captain Haddock? - plus French staples like Asterix and Obelix, there are also more obscure finds for the comic collecting veteran, severely denting my monthly comic book budget even further.

And every year, Angoulême becomes the comic book capital of the world with the Festival de la Bande Dessinee - aka the Angoulême International Comics Festival. The third largest comic book festival worldwide, and second largest in Europe after Lucca in Italy, it features exhibitions, talks, signings and events around the city.

After a long day of walking and gazing, I was happy to relax at Hotel Le Saint Gelais. With quietly elegant rooms, an excellent restaurant and cosy bar all set in peaceful grounds, it was once a retirement home for priests.

Today it's the perfect spot to unwind and indulge in that new reading material. Like the town itself, the hotel is ideal for art lovers: beautiful and eclectic prints line the walls, the opposite of the usual uninspiring decorations, making it far more interesting that its chain hotel competition.

Even if you come for the comics, you shouldn't miss a short visit to neighbouring Cognac for (you guessed it) the Cognac. Set in what is now called Nouvelle-Aquitaine - formerly Poitou-Charentes, a change which is guaranteed to start any local griping about President Hollande - the surrounding countryside is famous for its distillers.

Hennessey, Martell and Remy Martin are open for tours and visits but if you want to indulge in tastings too, there are a handful of kosher distilleries in the area as well. Keep your eyes peeled for labels including 'Dupuy' and 'Godet'. Whether you decide to try the unusual local aperitif of Cognac and tonic is up to you.

From drawings to drinks, Angoulême really is a city break with more than meets the eye.

Share via

Want more from the JC?

To continue reading, we just need a few details...

Want more from
the JC?

To continue reading, we just
need a few details...

Get the best news and views from across the Jewish world Get subscriber-only offers from our partners Subscribe to get access to our e-paper and archive