It’s less than 40 miles along Andalucia’s winding mountain roads to reach Ronda from Marbella but it feels a world away from the beachy resorts of the Costa del Sol.
Famous for the soaring arches of its ‘new’ bridge, rising over 300ft above the Guadalevin river gorge, the town’s history pre-dates the Romans: later part of the Moorish kingdom of El Andalus, its Jewish quarter once stretched along part of the riverside.
Staying at the luxurious Anantara Villa Padierna Palace resort, itself almost precisely half-way between Marbella and Estepona, we’d made the most of the hotel’s Experience days out, dragging ourselves away from the pool, spa and beach club to explore some more of the Spanish countryside.
Surrounded by three national parks, including the Sierra de la Nieves biosphere reserve, the drive from the coast takes you ever higher into the hills, splashes of yellow flowers among the pines and the scent of Mediterranean herbs floating through the open window. From roadside viewpoints, you can see out to Gibraltar and Morocco beyond, as well as the whitewashed villages dotted in the valleys.
Along the way, countless rows of olive trees and vines produce the wines and olive oil for which Andalucia is known. Inspired by the area’s heritage, French design guru Philippe Starck is one of the driving forces behind La Almazara near Ronda, where you can pick and crush your own olives, as well as tasting the oil.
The route through the olive trees is dotted with art, while the buildings are given Starck’s own architectural twist — the new mill, opening in 2023, will be adorned with abstract bull’s horns, inspired by both local boy Picasso and the area’s bullfighting heritage.
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Ronda's new bridge (Photo: Unsplash)
In Ronda itself, you’ll find a museum dedicated to Picasso’s contemporary and friend, Joaquín Peinado — plus inspiration for your own photos around almost every corner. A string of viewpoints look out from the 18th century Puente Nuevo, which links the old city with the new town; there’s a small interpretation centre in the bridge itself too.
But for the best views, venture down into the El Tajo gorge to gaze back up at this elegant engineering marvel, one of several bridges crossing the chasm.
Instead, our steps led us through the old streets down towards the riverside and the Banos Arabes, the remains of the 13th century Arab baths. The Jewish community which once lived in the streets near here is long gone, but the old hammam is one of the best preserved in Spain.
A system of buckets and pulleys drew the water from the river up the hillside, to be heated by the wood-fired oven and pumped into the hottest room. Frequented by both men and woman (at separate times), visitors to the baths would have started here, after catching up with friends around the pool in the main reception.
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Arab baths (Photo: Unsplash)
A second warm room followed, before a cooler area to finish, with star-shaped openings in the roof letting in the light: outside under the shady trees, the gardens look up to the whitewashed buildings of the town above, with the faint sound of running water from the Guadalevin in the valley below.
The Puerta de la Cijara, once the city’s main gate, still stands nearby, as does the hilly path to the Casa del Rey Moro: despite its name, the buildings and gardens here date from several hundred years after the last Moorish king, although the water mine is older, another complex feat of hydraulic engineering bringing river water up the side of the gorge.
Ronda’s most impressive entrance has to be the Almocabar gate; rather prosaically a road junction runs past it today but the massive fortified walls still look impressively impregnable. One of the final cities to fall to the Reconquista, seven years before the expulsion of 1492, even Ronda’s hilltop position and imposing defences couldn’t hold out against the besieging forces however.
For an overview of the town’s past, the Mondragon Palace — once home to the town’s Moorish ruler, and where the victorious Ferdinand II (and possibly Queen Isabella) later stayed — now houses a string of exhibits on Ronda’s history. But after this race through the past, our own luxurious palace was tempting us back to the coast.
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Anantara Villa Padierna Palace resort (Photo: Anantara Hotels)
The first property in Spain from Asian hotel group Anantara, the rose-coloured building at the heart of Anantara Villa Padierna Palace resort has its own timeless feel, but is only a couple of decades old, with the kind of five-star facilities that even a monarch might envy.
Our spacious Junior suite, one of 132 rooms and suites, looked out across one of the three golf courses open to guests — there’s a reason this part of Spain is also known as the Costa del Golf.
Tucked away beyond the resort’s Roman-style amphitheatre sit nine villas, the largest of which hosted Michelle Obama, complete with butler service and private pool.
Not that other guests are short of places to swim. The main pool is equally enticing whether you’re travelling with kids or want to relax in the shade of the palm and cypress trees; little fountains are dotted under the bougainvillea to the sides, as if you might have strolled from the Alhambra to your lounger.
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Pool (Photo: Anantara hotels)
Another heated indoor pool in the spa is for adults only, except for an hour every morning.
The spa itself is modelled on Roman baths with a thermal circuit (free for guests) featuring a string of different heated rooms, from Greek and Finnish saunas to scented steams and hammams, plus plunge pools and relaxation areas.
There are signature treatments too, including a one-hour massage with personalised oils — and, happily, a kids’ club during school holidays, so those on a family holiday can still make the most of the pampering.
You’ll find nods to classical civilisation around almost every corner. Among the 1,200 pieces of original art around the property are marble statues and busts galore, including a rather endearing stone lion just off the glass-roofed lobby.
Framed architect’s plans of Roman villas line some of the walls, along with antique furniture, Chinese porcelain lamps and travertine marble bathrooms in the rooms.
As well as the day excursions — including the option to travel by helicopter — a little shuttle runs from the resort to the beach club, making the 10 minute journey once an hour.
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Beach club (Photo: Anantara Hotels)
With jellyfish often claiming the waves along the coast from Malaga over the past few years, I made the most of the day beds on the edge of the sand instead, especially after indulging at the weekly Sunday brunch.
Alongside bottomless cava and a buffet spread across half a dozen groaning tables, there are freshly prepared fish dishes from the grill, plus specialities such as sea bass cooked in salt.
Otherwise, unless you book a day trip or taxi, there’s little within walking distance bar the golf courses. It was hard to care though, days alternating between pool and beach, plus the occasional saunter around the manicured grounds was the kind of routine I’d happily have followed indefinitely.
With several restaurants within the resort, you aren’t short of places to eat either. La Loggia, where breakfast is served every morning, transforms into an Italian restaurant at night: mushroom and truffle pappardelle was fabulous, as well as more fish options on this menu too.
Or choose between Japanese fusion at Sushi 99, the laid-back poolside La Pergola, with vines winding around trellises above the tables and lighter options at Hole 55, where an Indian street food pop-up is planned for this summer. All finished with cocktails at Eddy’s Bar, watching the sun set from the tables on the terrace.
It’s a long way from the classic image of a holiday on the Costa del Sol — but this is one Spanish secret which deserves to be shared.
Getting There
Deluxe rooms cost from around £275 per night at Anantara Villa Padierna Palace Resort, including breakfast.
The hotel is around one hour by car from Malaga airport, with return flights from various UK airports costing from £35. Transfers to the resort cost from around £145.
A day tour to Ronda costs from £680 including lunch.
For more day excursions in the area, visit marbellatrips.com
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