All the Fresser family love a tea. It's a difficult choice whether we prefer that or breakfast — pretty well the only two meals that we all enjoy equally without fear of fussiness ruining our fun. The mini Fressers will eat most sweet treats with gusto. (Not always a plus, when I’m fighting the good fight against sugar.)
When the lovely folk at London’s Mandarin Oriental Hotel invited us to come and fress in the recently reopened Rosebery, I jumped at the chance. We visited at the end of our first week back at school. It helped lighten the January gloom.
It had been closed, along with the rest of the hotel, after a fire last summer. At the time of our visit only the food and beverage areas had reopened and it all looked terribly shiny.
It was chilly, so we drove to Knightsbridge, finding a pay and display bay about five minutes’ walk away. Doormen beamed as we were whisked up the grand stairs at the entrance and into the Rosebery.
From the minute we walked in, staff were friendly, helpful and slick. Spiriting our coats away and whisking us to our table. We’d pre-ordered two children’s teas and vegetarian teas for us. In early January, they were at the end of their festive tea menu, which made for cute selection of children’s treats, from the Rudolph reindeer biscuit to a red and white, bauble-shaped chocolate cake.
There are extensive tea varieties on offer — green, white, black – the list is endless with a selection of coffees and, for those wanting something stronger, several alcohol pairing menus.
Specially selected champagnes, wines, beer or even sake can be picked; three of each one — to pair with the savoury sandwiches, then the scones and finally with the patisserie. (Expect a supplement with any alcoholic addition.)
Making up for December’s excesses, I picked just the one flute of their house champagne — Ruinart Blancs de Blancs — plus a pot of light Darjeeling tea. The children were delighted to be offered hot chocolate (Valrhona) and Mr P went with something so random, I cannot now remember it.
Grown up sandwiches were a twist on the norm. Tiny pinwheels, filled with morsels including including egg and truffle; smoked salmon and spicy tuna presented huddled in the centre of the plate. At first sight, it could be (unfairly) described as a lonely, but don’t be disheartened — as the tea is bottomless (ie: you can eat as much as you like). When the first plate has been demolished — which it was in seconds — more are proffered continually until you wave them on, in a Homer Simpson-style, glazed-eyed, post-cheese frenzy fashion.
The current menu has an Asian twist — tuna is paired with wasabi with wakame, and salmon with teriyaki sauce and asparagus with roasted sesame. The main menu has several meat and seafood options, but the hotel are happy to provide vegetarian fillings if you call ahead.
No issues with the children’s menu. Finger sandwiches were filled with cheddar cheese; cream cheese and cucumber; Nutella; and peanut butter and jam. The mini Fressers could not believe their luck — “We can have more?!” they exclaimed in disbelief. They're kept on a tight sugar-free leash at home. “As much as we want?!” – a dream come true. Both wolfed down their first plateful and took a second identical selection before ploughing into mini scones with tubes of cream and jam to decorate them; a fan-shaped biscuit (the Mandarin Oriental logo) with melted, coloured chocolate and the with which to decorate it; a plate of pastries and small glass cups of chocolate pearls.
Our scones arrived on a special tray that was suspended on a cage-like contraption next to our table. Warm, tender scones — plain and cranberry — sat next to thick, clotted cream and three types of spread to slather them with. Sticky lemon curd and two flavours of fruit preserve. Delicious.
By pastry time we were slowing down. A shame, as the pastry chef is a star. Almond tuiles, mini raspberry tarts and filled almond-y biscuits that had a choux bun-like appearance.
Beaten by the scale of goodies on offer, and parental guilt, we asked for take away boxes, which were provided happily. Nothing too much trouble.
What a treat. Tea at the Mandarin was a perfect end to our school holidays. It’s a lovely treat en famille, but not cheap, so possibly one for a special celebration or date a deux.
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