The Fresser

Is North West London’s recent Jewish restaurant opening the heir to Harry Morgan’s?

Plus news of a kosher restaurant opening in North West London


Photo: Getty Images

Word has reached me that a new Jewish deli has opened its doors on the slopes of Haverstock Hill. Might it fill the gaping hole left by Harry Morgan’s — which closed its doors nearly three years ago?

The newcomer, Freddie’s delicatessen and restaurant, sits within the shadow of the Royal Free Hospital. Like the St John’s Wood institution (which is unconnected) this diner isn’t kosher, but has a menu that’s packed with many of the Ashkenazi classics.

There are the usual suspects — smoked salmon bagels; fried fish balls; latkes and chicken soup with matzah balls. In addition though, the owners of Freddie’s have created a range of recipes with a twist.

Cholent has become cholent cassoulet (a poshed-up name linking it with its more stylish French cousin); while American Ashkenazi soul food, kasha varnishkes is paired with a vegetarian version of Eastern European staple — stroganoff.

To those unfamiliar with kasha varnishkes — kasha is a grain which, in this dish is served with butterfly-shaped pasta. Here, topped with creamy mushroom sauce it sounds the ultimate bowl of comfort. Almost as dreamy sounding as challah French toast — also on the menu.

From a scan of the menu, there’s also salt beef, schnitzel and a scattering of slightly more exotic favourites, including a Bloody Mary shakshuka and Italian Jewish classic carciofi all guidia (artichoke hearts done Jewish style).

More to follow when I’ve been to investigate.

In other news from that corner of the world, Karma bakery challah maven, Tami Isaacs has announced she will be holding challah-making classes at her Brent Cross Town store as part of a series of food and drink masterclasses by various specialists. Head to her Instagram page to book your place. 


In Golders Green, a kosher Middle Eastern Street Food bakery opened its doors this weekend. Oven Eat has popped up on Golders Green High Road with KLBD certification and a shiny new Instagram account that promises delicious pastries, breads, juices and coffee.

Expect borekas, bagels and Sephardi favourite, sambusak plus pretzels and a range of breakfast pastries and stuffed savoury breads like focaccia.

More on this when we’ve popped in to sample.

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