Remove the lid and add the fat a spoonful at a time together with the lemon zest, then pulse until it disappears. The mixture should now look like mayonnaise.

Add the milk, flour and salt and mix until creamy — scrape the sides down if necessary. (To mix by hand, put all the cake ingredients in a bowl and beat with electric beaters of or wooden spoon until smooth.)

With either method: turn the batter into the prepared cake tin and smooth level. Bake for 45 minutes until the top is golden and springy.

Place the cake, still in its tin, on a cooling rack.

Gently heat the sugar and lemon juice until a clear syrup is formed.

Prick the warm cake all over with a fork, then gently pour the syrup over it, spooning it from the sides until it has been completely absorbed.

Leave until the cake is cold, then carefully turn out on a serving plate.

Recipe adapted from ‘Mother and Daughter Jewish Cooking’ by Evelyn Rose and Judi Rose (William Morrow & Co)