I love the bite of barley, and its nuttiness goes so well with orange and tarragon. Barley is also very robust and forgiving, so it’s hard to overcook; certainly a foolproof grain.

Method:

• Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan.

• Melt 50g of the butter with the oil in your wide shallow pot over a medium heat. Add the onion and celeriac, along with a pinch of salt. Cook for 7–8 minutes until the onion has softened but not browned. Add the garlic and cook for another 2 minutes.

• Add the barley, stirring to coat all the grains in the oil and onions. Cook for 2 minutes. Add the white wine and allow to bubble and be almost totally absorbed, then add the vegetable stock, 1½ tsp salt and ¼ tsp black pepper. Bring to the boil, then cover with the lid and pop in the oven for 40 minutes.