Red is not always the perfect match

Not perfect with everything, of course; if you’re rolling out a cheeseboard, some of its inhabitants may not be perfectly served. But you get more winners than losers, I’m willing to wager.

And the wine doesn’t even need to be expensive. Consider an old friend of this column, now in a new vintage:
Tesco Finest Dessert Sémillon 2009, made by the estimable De Bortoli winery in New South Wales. At £6.79 for 37.5cl, this glowingly honeyed beauty is almost certainly the best low-priced sweet wine in the country.

And consider Martinez Marsala Superiore Riserve Dolce (M&S, £6.49/37.5cl), a good entry-level example of Sicily’s unique wine. Zesty, fresh acidity lifts the intense flavours of dried fruits.

And finally, Domaine des Forges 2010, Côteaux du Layon. Chenin Blanc produces fabulous sweet wines in the Loire Valley, and this one has a fine balance of lush sweetness and fine acidity at a low price. From 53 branches of Waitrose and online at £8.49/37.5 – and on special offer at £6.99 till June 10th.

As I say, none of these will match every single cheese on your cheeseboard. But they’ll do a lot better than most reds. Whatever the received wisdom might say.