February fressing: on my plate - The Jewish Chronicle

I’d almost forgotten the pleasure of looking at a menu. Fressing on food I haven’t spent hours preparing — and walking away from all the clearing up.

For those making the most of their newfound freedom, here are some of the tables and takeaways I’ve enjoyed in the last month:

Flotsam and Jetsam at Clifton Nurseries
Last month I sat down with restaurateur, Adam Karni-Cohen, to hear about his catering company, Bovingdon’s, and mini chain of Aussie-influenced cafes — Flotsam and Jetsam cafes.

This, the most recent incarnation, is based at Little Venice landmark, Clifton Nurseries. His company took over the cafe last year. It's an old favourite haunt — I started out married life around the corner and used to walk my then baby and toddler there for tasty treats.

Based in a light-filled greenhouse-style structure there's a relaxed, Antipodean vibe. The counter display is laden with wooden crates covered with droolworthy pastries, savoury and sweet tarts and sticky cakes.

The morning menu offers fairly standard brunch fare: pancakes; eggs (benedict/florentine/royale/scrambled); winter porridge - made with coconut milk; cranberry and apple; chia-acai bowls and toasties plus coffee by artisan roaster Allpress.

Lunch slides into soups; salads; bruschetta; hot sandwiches; burgers and sides plus some seriously indulgent desserts — warm cookie dough with honey and vanilla ice cream, anyone?

My smashed avocado, poached egg and feta on sourdough (pictured at the head of this page) was zingy and generously portioned. Definitely worth a visit and a gem for lucky locals — wish I was still one of them.

The Plough at Sleapshyde
Closer to (my) home was this pub, virtually on my doorstep. Well — 10 minutes' drive into the Herts countryside.

Set in a tiny village (conveniently close to main roads) the sophisticated menu at this restaurant belies a former Hand and Flowers sous chef at its helm. And it shows.

Owner Rob Laub took over the pub last October, and is already drawing in locals and a steady stream of north-west London foodies. The interior worked perfectly for a cosy late Sunday lunch — lots of dark wood and a ceiling lined with pretty, twinkly lights. The huge outdoor area with bbq will make it a summer draw, especially as it sits on the Alban Way, so great for country walks to work up an appetite.

Focaccia was light and pillowy, cured salmon with rhubarb and ginger was zingy and fork-haltingly, wow. Save some of that bread to mop the juices from the plate.

The Plough cured salmon, rhubarb, ginger

Cured salmon was a thing of beauty. Photo: Victoria Prever

Highlights included hake with herb butter and crisp, and crispy spheres of fried potato which kept Mr P in raptures. (They’d helpfully swapped out mussel butter.) Perfectly roasted potatoes, tender cabbage and mashed celeriac were served in sharing bowls.

Plough chocolate bar

Don't miss The Plough chocolate bar. Photo: Victoria Prever

Rob advised us to go for the Plough chocolate bar and he was so right. It was the love child of a Snickers Bar and salted caramel millionaire’s bar. Stilton with a malt waffle, mustard fruit puree and candied walnut was a salty sweet taste explosion.

Eating without our tween and teen, the meal brought back that pre-children, Sunday afternoon post-lunch glow that only fantastic food and wine can spark. (What a pleasure it was to look at other people's children - from afar.)

Starters range from £8-10; mains £18 - 26 and desserts £8 - 12.
There's also a private room for small celebrations. A must-visit.

Gracy’s Pizza
Local pizza stand, Goodfired, popped up in the next village to mine during lockdown and was an immediate family fixture. Without doubt the best takeaway pizza I’d eaten. Ever. It became a regular treat for family Saturday night movie watching.

We loved the Neopolitan-style pizzas so much we asked them to cater for my son's bar mitzvah lunch. One child enjoyed the pizzas so much they ordered five. FIVE!!!!

Godo Fired pizza.jpg

Gracey's are cooking up perfect pizza

Founders, James and Grace, have taken a unit over the road from my home so the perfect pizza is a stumble away. They opened their doors last weekend, and we were straight over there for Margaritas, Funghi and Melanzane - all around the £10 mark. Currently only open at Thursday to Saturday - when you need to order ahead as they sold out both nights. I may need restraining if I’m going to avoid turning into Mrs Blobby. It’s takeaway only but I’m not complaining — there's still minimal washing up.

Brick Lane Beigel delivery
Another meal at home, but a taste of the East (End) delivered to my door. The famous beigel (bagel to the less traditional) makers have gone all 21st century with their own app and are sending their salmon/salt beef/chopped herring or even plain beigels anywhere within the M25. Delivery may make it a questionable lunch choice if you’re too far away, but for Central Londoners it means an authentic chewy beigel is a click away.

Beigel bake box

A box of beigels from the Beigel Bake. Photo: Victoria Prever

The huge selection they sent me (not kosher) didn’t last long, nor did the huge selection box of biscuits and pastries that they can also send your way.