Raymond had left Herbert Samuel to set up a burger joint (Dude’s Burgers) in Netanya (still being run by his business partner) but could not turn down the opportunity after being approached by Cohen to create a restaurant in The David Kempinski.
What he has produced at Katzir is grounded yet contemporary – he terms the style “fine casual”– elevated enough to serve foie gras, relaxed enough to dine in flip-flops. “It’s not just food,” he says, “it’s storytelling.”
The narrative is what sets Katzir apart. From a dish inspired by a memory of eating salt beef at Reuben’s on Baker Street as a child to another that captures the scent of a desert herb discovered during his army service, every plate comes with its own history. It’s food with soul, told through the lens of Israeli ingredients and diasporic nostalgia.
Our dinner began with a theatrical and symbolic start – a sweet kiddush wine jelly with freshly baked bread and dips representing both east and west.
Pungent chrain (grated horseradish) the Ashkenazi classic; schug and hilbeh for the Mizrahi. Pickled vegetables were accompanied by “beef butter” which was inventive, but I would have also like a good olive oil or meat-free spread. I was fortunate to be accompanied by my pescatarian niece who was visiting from London, which gave my normally carnivorous focus a different perspective.
Before investigating the restaurant’s wine list, we tried some of the cocktails that were well matched to the theme of the menu. Coriander Crush – a vivid, aromatic mix of Thinker’s Gin, grapefruit, and coriander juice – was both the best looking and best tasting of the ones we tried. The Royal Pearl, with Thinker’s vodka, elderflower and Chambord caviar-like spheres, added some fun to the experience, while Amber Eclipse, made with mezcal, Cointreau, aperitivo and rosemary, leaned towards the smoky and herbaceous.
The small plates – or as the menu terms them “Tweezers, Palettes & Spoons” – include an Arava tomato salad – an adaptation of the popular dish at Herbert Samuel where Raymond was a sous-chef. Some may not agree but I prefer this new version with olive crumble, basil oil and oregano. I was almost drinking the dressing at the end!
London lad: Raymond's backstory threads through his menus[Missing Credit]
My favourite starter was the veal sweetbreads served on a green almond salsa and almond tahini. I loved the balance of flavours and textures. The lion’s mane mushroom, bathed in a porcini broth and dusted with hazelnut crumble, was a highlight for its sweet, earthy depth.
Veal tongue, inspired by that Reuben’s salt beef sandwich, was a pleasant surprise as someone who doesn’t normally like the texture of tongue. The tongue is cured for 11 days and thinly sliced, served with a mustard that fuses English Coleman’s with Israeli wasabi and an herb oil inspired by that wild plant Raymond discovered during his army service in the Judean desert.
My pescatarian niece received a surprisingly convincing meatless version using Redefine Meat that held up impressively in both texture and taste – yes, I compared the two). She also enjoyed the Jaffa fishermen’s fritter served on a bed of chraime sauce with caraway oil.
English roots: Bangers and mash tell of former Brit Raymond's food history Photo: Debbie Kandel[Missing Credit]
The British theme continued through the main courses with an elevated version of chicken and chips — tender juicy spring chicken, golden curly fries cooked in beef tallow, a fried egg and a lush schmaltz mayo. With that came the classic British bangers and mash, made with sage mashed potatoes and sauerkraut – possibly the best sausages I have had in Israel.
The final meat dish was beautifully plated with three succulent lamb chops, served on a bed of Ben Gurion “Bakhsh” (also known as Bukharian rice or ptitim) with grilled baladi vegetables on a bright green lovage sauce.
For non-meat eaters there was sweet potato, stuffed with pumpkin seed falafel and slow-cooked fava beans and tahini. The sea bass, with crispy artichoke, tiny capers and sheets of homemade pasta is a dedication to the chef’s Libyan grandmother who taught him to make pasta like in the old country. This dish was a crowd favourite, even among the carnivores.
Desserts were no less considered. The apple in honey is a version of the trendy crack pie (aka treacle tart) came with a smooth mousse and caramel richness, while cassata layered Sicilian flair with cardamom crème anglaise. A cherry malabi meringue was airy, floral, and refreshingly light, with a Middle Eastern twist.
Dream destination: Katzir is keeping kosher standards high Photo: Asaf Karela[Missing Credit]
To accompany our meal our waitress recommended a bottle of Agur Rosè. I am familiar with some great red wines from this winery in the Judean Hills, but it was my first time trying the 2024 rose which I really enjoyed.
Katzir may sit within The David Kempinski but it doesn’t feel like a hotel restaurant. It’s an homage to Jewish food and the many cultures that converge in Israel. The menu changes regularly so don’t expect to find all these dishes but you’ll discover flavours you’re unlikely to have tried before.
Katzir at The David Kempinski Tel Aviv, Hayarkon St 51, Tel Aviv
Debbie Kandel is a food and travel writer and founder of Debbest Israel. More info on her tailor-made tasting tours of Shuk Machane Yehuda here.
