Sometimes it’s nice to mix up the flavours – and shapes. I’ve fallen in love with ‘everything bagel’ seasoning – an American import which is a mixture of poppy, sesame, garlic, onion and sea salt – which gives a lovely kick. It’s starting to take hold here too, and I particularly love the version made by Francesca Goldhill, the owner and genius baker and founder of bagels + schmear, a Hertfordshire bakery serving amazing New York-style bagels.
METHOD:
- In a small bowl, mix the yeast with a teaspoon of the sugar and about 1½ tablespoons of warm but not hot water. Leave for a few minutes while you prepare the rest of the ingredients – it should start to foam and bubble. This is how you know your yeast is active.
- Mix the dry ingredients in a large bowl. In another bowl or jug, crack the egg then add the oil and beat together. Make a dip in the middle of the dry ingredients and pour in the egg/oil mixture. Scrape the foaming yeast on top of the egg/oil mixture. To make sure all the yeast is used, rinse out the yeast bowl with a little of the warm water to be used in the next stage of the recipe, tipping it into the sugar/flour/egg/oil mix.
- Slowly add more water to your flour mixture, mixing as you go. Add only about 180ml of water initially. The consistency should be moist and pliable, with the dry ingredients absorbing the wet. Give it a good mix and start to knead it before adding more water, as it will become stickier. You don’t want any dry flour remaining.
- Once the dough has come together, knead it a few times in the bowl, then turn out on to a clean, very lightly oiled surface (no more than the slightest schmear of oil). Knead for about 10 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. If is very sticky, you may need to flour your hands. If you need to add more flour, do it sparingly – wetter is better!
- After kneading, form the dough into a ball, lightly oil a clean bowl, roll the dough ball lightly around the bowl to coat it in oil then cover with cling film or a clean, wet tea towel and leave in a warm place until the dough has doubled in size (1½ - 3 hours depending on how warm your kitchen is). The dough is ready if, when pressed gently, your finger leaves an indentation which does not spring back. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a large rectangle approximately 30cm x 45cm. Sprinkle with chopped spring onion and everything bagel spice, leaving a 2cm border all the way round.
- Roll (along the long border) into a Swiss roll-style sausage and pinch the ends closed. Using a sharp serrated knife, cut into 12 equally-sized rounds and arrange in an oiled baking tin lined with baking parchment, with space between them to expand. Leave to prove in a draught-free place for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Pre-heat oven to 220°C (200°C fan).
- When puffy and beautifully risen (a gentle prod into the lower side of a roll will leave a slight indentation) brush well with beaten egg and sprinkle with more seasoning. Place in the middle of oven and immediately turn oven down to 200°C (180°C fan). Bake for 20-25 minutes until golden. If they are overbrowning, cover lightly with a sheet of foil. Cool in the tin on a wire rack before serving.
Recipe extracted from Friday Night Feasts, available at thejc.com/jc-cookbook
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