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The Jewish Chronicle

Polished service

In this busy city, hoteliers are always looking for new ways to shine. Lydia Weitzman reports

November 9, 2010 15:20
Crowne Plaza City Centre, sushi bar

ByAnonymous, Anonymous

3 min read

Tel Aviv - you love it or hate it. It's hot, frenetic, even wild. It's certainly unholy. But it has an energy and beauty all of its own and for that reason, tourists and business people flock there in ever increasing droves. And the eager hoteliers strive to match the pace of the city with upgrades, renovations and improvements, in a bid to stay ahead of the game.

The buzzy beachfront, with its see-and-be-seen promenade and beach cafés, is classic hotel land, with a strip that runs from the imposing Hilton in the north (Tel Aviv's grande dame which retains its loyal guests year after year), down to the Tel Aviv-Jaffa seam with the towering David Intercontinental and Dan Panorama.

Somewhere in the middle lies the 280-room Dan Tel Aviv, the city's first luxury hotel to open in 1953 and today an iconic landmark, with its Yaacov Agam frontage bringing artistic style to the Tel Aviv boardwalk. After relocating the lounge and bar area to sea level last year (why did they never think of that before?), the latest and tastiest renovation at the Dan is the hotel's recently-opened signature restaurant, simply named 99 Hayarkon.

Presided over by hotel chef Oved Alfia and attended by faultless, fawning black-suited waiters, the intimate 10-table restaurant is arguably one of Tel Aviv's hidden gems. Less is more here, with just six items on each of the appetiser and main course menus (augmented by the daily specials). Beautifully presented, these art-on-the-plate designs are extremely easy on the palate - refreshing twists on perennial favourites such as fillet steak or spice-encrusted lamb chops and, when it comes to dessert, the Valhrona chocolate confection is sublime. Starched white linen cloths and silver water decanters round off the luxurious elegance.