The Little Book of Jewish Feasts by Leah Koenig highlights a multiplicity of Yomtov treats. Here are some tasters. Stemming from an Arabic word for hot, chraime is a fragrant stewed fish dish that gets its heat from minced chillis, or, in this version, dried red pepper flakes. North African Jews enjoy chraime for Shabbat dinner, Rosh Hashanah and at Seder. It is typically a prelude to the main course but it easily holds its own at the centre of the table. This chraime keeps the fiery spice to a minimum, but to dial up the heat, add more chilli flakes. Serve with Israeli couscous or rice.

Heat the oil in a large wide pan set over medium heat.

Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, six to eight minutes.

Add the garlic, cumin, cinnamon, turmeric, paprika, and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, one to two minutes.

Stir in the diced tomatoes, water, tomato paste, preserved lemon peel, sugar, bay leaf, salt, and pepper.

Raise the heat slightly and bring the mixture to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low and nestle the fish fillets in the sauce, spooning the sauce over the top of the fillets to cover, if necessary.

Cover the pan and simmer until the fish is cooked through, about 20 minutes.

Using a flat spatula, carefully remove the fillets from the pan and transfer to a serving platter.

Let the remaining sauce continue to cook in the pan, stirring often, until it thickens slightly, about five minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat, discard the bay leaf and spoon the sauce over the fish. Serve sprinkled with coriander and the lemon wedges on the side.

Store leftovers, covered, in the fridge for up to two days.