A short climb took me to the Alexandra Falls Viewpoint, where I could take in the full force of the falls cascading off the side of a cliff through the lush greenery, and admire the cloud forest of Mount Cocotte and the view down to the south coast.
It’s a dream location for hikers, although if you don’t have the time — or wish — to do a long walk, head to the Gorges viewpoint, for one of the best views on the island, a dramatic expanse of Mauritian jungle stretching down towards the west coast.
It’s as photogenic as views can get; just be wary of the cheeky long-tailed macaques that roam around when you get your camera out.
This spectacular corner of the island set the tone for the rest of the trip. From Black River we headed to nearby Chamarel, home to a geopark that draws in scores of visitors, where you can look at over 600 million years of history in one place in the form of the Seven Coloured Earths.
As the dunes evolved from volcanic rock to clay minerals and sand, the different colours in this natural phenomenon have settled to create seven distinct layers.
It’s not the only eye-catching sight here. I ventured off in search of the geopark’s resident giant tortoises, then stocked up on Café de Chamarel — the locally grown and roasted coffee with its own distinctive taste from the surrounding volcanic soil.
After a day packed with experiences like this, I was ready to relax. I’d chosen to base myself in the south of the island, at the St. Regis Mauritius Resort which promised the perfect mix of luxury and tranquillity plus design and food rooted in the heritage of the island.
Arriving to the sound of trickling fountains and waves crashing against the sandy beach was instant TLC for my mind, body and soul.
A relic of colonial days when Mauritius’ sugar industry thrived, the former plantation house has one of the most dramatic backdrops on the island; Le Morne mountain, a Unesco World Heritage site, rises behind it.
Staying in an Oceanview Manor House Suite, my lavish series of rooms in the main building came with its own terrace balcony, walk-in dressing room, deep soaking bath tub and walk-in rain shower.
There’s the additional luxury of butler service too — they’ll pour your morning coffee, make your dinner reservations, and even unpack (and repack) your cases — plus you can now arrange massages from resident spa staff in your own suite.
I wasn’t short of activities here either. By day I explored the resort’s rambling grounds, took part in yoga and tai chi lessons on the beach and tried kite surfing on the turquoise lagoon, also home to the world-famous ‘One Eye’ surf spot — a legendary wave in front of the reef.
Younger guests will love scouring the grounds to find the Dodo signs scattered around and learn about the famously extinct flightless bird that was once endemic to the island.
Early morning hikes to the top of Le Morne can be arranged too, but while there’s more than just the beach to discover in Mauritius, I didn’t want to miss out on sunbathing entirely; whether you need a cooling aloe vera juice or for your sunglasses to be cleaned, a quick press of the call button installed on your sun lounger equalled swift service too.
Despite these extravagantly pampering touches, the whole place felt incredibly homely — perfect for those who want to learn more about the island’s history as well as exploring.
Mauritius saw 300 years of colonial rule by the Dutch, French and British before independence, and this still influences everything from the architecture to the food.
The island has its own Jewish community as well, with enough members to maintain a synagogue — the Amicale Maurice Israel Center in the city of Curepipe. Here they still honour and remember Jewish refugees sent to Mauritius in 1940.
Escaping wartorn Europe, they were denied entry into British Palestine with around 1,600 shipped on to Mauritius, then a British colony.
Detained until the end of the Second World War, over one hundred died in the camp’s inhospitable conditions and lie buried in the Jewish section of St. Martin Cemetery.
After the war, the majority chose a new life in what was then Palestine. Today’s small community — where in 2000, they celebrated the first Bar Mitzvah since the war — is unrelated to those once detained here.
There’s also a small museum remembering this darker chapter of Mauritian history.
There are happier reminders of the island’s history to be found too, not least in the island’s food with its Indian, Chinese and European influences. At Le Manoir Dining Room — one of the resort’s five restaurants — I try fragrant and spicy Mauritian vegetable curry and palm heart salad.
With a fresh taste not dissimilar to artichoke, the palm heart comes from coconut trees and can only be harvested every seven years; a scarcity which explains its local name of ‘Millionaire’s salad’.
And in the hotel’s 1904 bar with its murals of traditional Mauritian life, I make time for signature cocktail La Belle Creole Mary.
At the sister hotel in New York, barman Fernand Petiot invented the Bloody Mary in 1934; now each hotel in the collection has a locally inspired interpretation. In true Mauritian style, the exotic twist includes plantation rum and aloe vera juice.
Because in this palm-fringed playground there’s always something unexpected to discover: an island Eden where wildlife, culture and adventure are never far away.
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