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Food

She turned Israel from wasteland to taste land

Katherine Martinelli meets Janna Gur, the writer who revolutionised Israeli cuisine

May 5, 2011 10:57
Gur’s interest in food was sparked in New York

ByAnonymous, Anonymous

2 min read

Today food media is as big in Israel as anywhere else in the world, with competing prime-time TV cooking shows and celebrity chefs. But 20 years ago Israel was considered a culinary wasteland. Magazine publisher, food writer and cookbook author Janna Gur changed all that when she and her husband - helped by a bit of foresight - started Al HaShulchan ("On the Table" in Hebrew) magazine. It recently celebrated its 20th birthday and no other publication has come close to achieving its status in Israel.

Gur moved from Latvia to Israel with her family as a teenager and studied English literature and art history before doing her mandatory service in the Israeli army. From there she began her Masters degree in translation and became a flight attendant for El Al to finance her studies. She recalls that it was her bi-monthly trips to New York that sparked her early interest in food. With 36 hours on the ground she would sample as much art, culture, and food as possible, and it was a revelation. "In the '80s in Israel" she explains, "there wasn't much going on. The food scene was really very basic and very Spartan."

Despite her burgeoning fascination with food, Gur did not anticipate it turning into a career. She met her husband, Ilan, in 1984. He was an independent publisher of a marine sports magazine and while scuba diving did not interest Gur, the magazine did and she helped with everything from layout to editing. In 1991 they started a food magazine; "a very humble publication for professional chefs. We didn't aspire to anything more than that," she says.

At a time when being a chef was not an esteemed profession, Gur saw the start of something big. "The '90s was the formative decade of the Israeli food scene," she says. "People started to discuss Israeli cuisine. There was wine that was suddenly drinkable and great bread, there was boutique cheese. Suddenly it became very sexy to be a chef." Aspiring Israeli chefs began to attend culinary school abroad and return to open their own restaurants.