No one wants to cook in a heatwave so one solution to avoid sweltering in a too-hot kitchen during this summer’s record-breaking heatwave was to eat out.
In July I was invited to the third outing of the recently launched new Tavlin kosher supper club. Co-hosted by Joanna Nissim and Louisa Walters. The pair have between them an impressive kosher / foodie pedigree.
Nissim is a ‘food-preneur’ who, over the last 18 months has channelled her energies into a number of kosher projects. One of her many metaphorical spinning plates includes an innovative idea to persuade high-end, non-kosher Spanish restaurant Arros QD to offer a kosher menu for one night.
She worked with the Central London restaurant’s chefs and the impressively forward-thinking Kehillas Federation Kosher to kosher the premises, bringing in kosher cooking and serving utensils plus all the glasses and crockery to allow observant Jewish foodies to enjoy the meaty menu.
These pop ups, which Nissim has repeated several times, have been popular, but all that work in a Central London location comes with a high price ticket not within everyone’s reach.
So, teaming up with Walters, who, as founder of Facebook group The Restaurant Club is well-connected in the mainstream restaurant sphere, the pair hit upon a second formula that brings new flavours to the world of kashrut at a lower price point.
The pair have kicked off a series of supper clubs in the dining room (on London’s Golders Green High Road) that was housed meat restaurant, La Fiesta. The idea being to offer a new style of cuisine cooked by an ordinarily non-kosher chef in the supervised venue.
Refreshing watermelon kicked off the Indian feast (VP)[Missing Credit]
Their first outing saw chef Khailid Dahbi in the kitchen, producing a Moroccan menu. Their opening night coincided with the Golders Green stabbings resulting in their main entrance being blocked by road closures and police cordons. But both hosts and guests refused to bow to the hate crimes, entering instead via the rear kitchen entrance.
A month later, in thankfully calmer conditions, the talented Sri Lankan chef Kushan Martelis (owner of non-kosher, Borehamwood-based Cacao restaurant) served up his Flavours of Asia menu.
When I visited – on a sweltering evening, Indian chef Shikha Chadha who serves up (non-kosher) Indian street food at her Barnet-based restaurant Chit Chaat was at the helm.
My guest, (the busy balaboosta) and I shared sighs of relief as we swapped Middle Eastern-style street heat for air-conditioned cool and a warm welcome from our hosts.
Two long rows of tables, set for 80 guests were clad in purple cloths, set with gold-coloured cutlery and decorated with vibrant, neon-toned flowers. There was already an audible buzz of excitement in the half-full room as guests shmoozed while sipping pre-dinner cocktails - included in the £80 per head price ticket.
There’s the option of adding a wine pairing curated by kosher wine expert, Jacob Betito of Vinavon or ordering from a wine list that offers a mixture of new and old world wines at a range of price points plus a couple of lagers – my normal go-to with a spicy menu.
I was driving, but sitting opposite Betito’s (kvelling) mother got to sample some of his choices, which he personally poured for those who’d opted to add the £45 wine pairing with a side of his extensive wine knowledge.
The menu was made up a series of five smallish courses, refreshing watermelon chaat (chunks of sweet melon, a gritty (in a good way) cashew nut-based labneh and sweet-sour tamarind dressing); two tiny puri (like crisp pancakes) topped with slivers of sea bass and more zingy sweet/sour tamarind – tricky to eat without it collapsing awkwardly as you bit into it); a tender tandoori cauliflower slathered in a coconut/mint sauce paired with crunchy sticks of fresh-flavoured raw beet and (the busy balaboosta’s favourite) lamb rogan josh with its aromatic, trademark rich red sauce plus spice-packed saffron pulao rice, smoked aubergine and green leaves. I was relieved not to smear any of that sauce on my ill-advised white dress.
Besan ladoo - a nutty ball with a halva-esque texture with less sweetness that’s traditionally eaten for Diwali plus and dairy-free Indian spin on tiramisu finished the evening before we emerged back into the steamy street.
You won’t find the same Indian menu as Nissim and Walters have planned a range of cuisines from a carousel of different chefs.
Next month sees chef Emily Leah’s fusion-style East x West menu for which wine expert, Betito has secured two South African wines currently exported only to Israel and the US.
Pitched at a price you could find yourself paying for a kosher meal out in London, for committed kosher foodies Tavlin is a great chance to explore food ordinarily outside usual kosher confines.
Next supper club will be on September 3.
For details visit Tavlin Kosher Supper Club’s Instagram
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