A fresh bouquet to greet springy days

Another bunch having a bumpy ride at the moment is Chile, whose UK wine exports have fallen by over a third in volume since last year. I hope they’ll rise again as consumers get wise to Casillero del Diablo Devil’s Collection White 2012, an off-dry blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer. A springy cocktail of citrus, tropical fruit and gooseberry, £8.99 at Tesco.

It might seem counter-intuitive to recommend a Chianti just as the weather is warming up, but remember: spring is the start of barbecue season, and few wines go better with a barbecued steak. Piccini Winemaker’s Choice Chianti Riserva 2009 (£8.99 at Morrison’s) is a good and typical example at a reasonable price.

Equally counter-intuitive: port. But I say yes if it’s a tawny — not only a great wine for tangy hard cheeses but a wonderful apéritif if, like me (and the French) you enjoy apéritifs with some sweetness to them. A sublime example has recently hit my desk, Harvey Nichols 10-Year-Old Tawny (£27.50 for 50cl). Made by the estimable Quinta de la Rosa, this is textbook young tawny. A 75ml glass is all you need to whet your appetite, or float alongside your Montgomery’s cheddar. Or as a toast to the woebegone winemakers of Bordeaux.