Choose aubergines that are light in weight and smooth and shiny. To do the charring, I place a wire rack on the stove, then put the aubergine – as is, or wrapped in foil – on top of the rack. Once the underneath has softened, I turn it carefully using tongs. Care must be taken not to pierce the aubergines during the charring process.

Method:

• Char the aubergines until blackened on all sides and softened (see tip). Place in a colander to cool and drain.

• Peel off the charred skin and trim and discard stems. Place the flesh in a colander and squeeze out excess moisture. Chop the flesh. Place in a bowl and add other ingredients, mixing together well with a fork; the mixture should be firm-ish and able to hold together.