The two stars of this salad are iconic of Margaret’s early food associations in Mexico City and across Los Angeles: peeled and sliced mango and jicama often sold on sticks or in plastic cups and covered in chile and lime. Heaping portions of this salad strike the perfect balance between casual and celebratory, sweet and spicy.

Created in the mid-1980s, Tajín is a seasoning blend of chiles, lime, and salt that is now widely used across a variety of sweet and savoury dishes and even to rim glasses for spicy cocktails.

Jicama is best from late autumn to early spring, although it can be harvested year-round.

Editor’s note: Jicama, which has a fresh, crunchy texture, can be found in speciality shops as Mexican turnip. If you cannot find it you can substitute it for turnips, radish or Granny Smith apples.