While Tatarstan was not one of the 15 Soviet republics, but instead an ‘autonomous republic’ within Russia, Tatar cuisine was dragged into the same ideological meat grinder. The Volga Tatar azu stew became a staple in obshchepit – state-run public food spaces like factory, school, hospital and sanatorium canteens. Simple to prepare and nutrient-rich, it worked well for large-batch cooking and illustrates how Soviet food policy preserved ethnic labels while subsuming them into a centralised, industrial food culture. Complex politics aside, this is a delicious homey stew, which wins me over every single time with the flavour of dill pickles and the texture of fried potatoes.

Method:

• Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a deep pan over a medium-high heat. Brown the beef strips for 6-8 minutes until lightly golden, then remove and set aside.
• In the same pan, add another drizzle of oil and sauté the onions with the carrot until soft and golden. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds, then stir in the tomato paste and cook for another minute.
• Return the beef to the pan, add the pickled cucumbers, sugar, bay leaves, black pepper, paprika and broth. Cover with a lid, bring to a simmer and cook for about 1½ hours, or until the beef is tender.
• While the beef cooks, in a separate pan, fry the potato chips in enough oil until they are golden on the outside but still slightly firm inside, usually about 5-7 minutes over medium heat.
• Add the fried potatoes to the beef mixture and simmer, covered, for another 15-20 minutes, allowing the potatoes to absorb the sauce and finish cooking. Adjust the salt to taste.
• Let the dish rest for a few minutes before serving with a sprinkling of fresh dill or parsley and some freshly ground black pepper.

Recipe extracted from Lozhka by Alissa Timoshkina, Quadrille

Instagram: @alissatimoshkina