There are times when I'm drawn to the kotel for inspiration and introspection (a scenic 35 min walk on a quiet Shabbat morning) and times when the Mediterranean Sea beckons from Tel Aviv. Today was one of those Tel Aviv days.
After dropping off a friend at Jerusalem's Central Bus Station, I decided I was already a third of the way to Tel Aviv, so why not take advantage of the sunshine and balmy upper 70 degree temperature to sneak off to enjoy the White City.
Despite the warm day, the waves were in their winter mode, pounding away in an angry froth at the jagged rocks not too far from Jaffa. I sat on a rock overlooking the Sea for almost an hour, mesmerized by the rhythm of the water and its delicate green hue. It's hard to believe that it's been only two months since I was last communing with a vast body of water--in mid-September I spent a few precious days with my daughter at Washington's Pacific Beach, reveling in the empty expanse of sand, dunes, and ocean.
Just 15 minutes walk from the Tel Aviv promenade, where a few people were lounging at the cafes on the beach, is the restored Bialik Square. Home of the Bauhaus Center, the quiet, tree-lined square and adjoining streets give us an idea of what Tel Aviv was like in the 1930s and 40s. Along with some classic Bauhaus buildings, there are several older, more elegant houses that are gradually being restored. At 14 Bialik Street is the Rubin Museum, in the home of the renowned 20th century Israeli artist Reuven Rubin.
The museum was reopened in 2003 after a lengthy renovation that made it into a beautiful place to take in some of the best works of the Rumanian-born artist who died in 1974.
From the tranquility of Bialik Street, it's just a 5 minute walk to the hubub of the Carmel Market. I still think Jerusalem's Machane Yehudah is far more atmospheric than Shuk HaCarmel, but all markets are fun, and this one leads down to Tel Aviv's original neighborhood, Neve Tzedek.
Wandering around the colorful quaint streets with their cute boutiques and trendy cafes all within 5 minutes walk of both the sea and the market, it's easy to see why this has become one of Tel Aviv's most desirable neighborhoods.
People-watching in Tel Aviv is a completely different pastime than in Jerusalem. Women in Tel Aviv sport the latest fashion, whereas Jerusalemites tend to dress for comfort or ideology. Another Tel Aviv trend that hasn't yet hit Jerusalem is the electric scooter. It's the latest mode of transportation in flat Tel Aviv where it's perfect for gadding about town.
Still, by the end of the day, I was ready to abandon the Tel Aviv humidity and head back to the hills of Jerusalem and reality.
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