Opinion

Last orders for London’s rudest but kindest landlord

Norman Balon was larger than life, so his Jewishness was large, too, as large as his powerful frame. His was a particular London Jewishness: not of the higher professions but adjacent to gangsterism, not a criminal but knowing how to deal with them

June 10, 2026 14:22
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Norman Balon in his Coach and Horses in Soho, London. (Image: Alamy)
3 min read

When a friend got in touch with me recently to talk about the legendary Soho landlord Norman Balon, who died last week at the age of 99, she added what I thought was an extraordinary statement: “I didn’t know he was Jewish. Did you?”

I thought this extraordinary because for a long time, I considered him to be the most Jewish person I had ever met. Not through any acts of piety or observance; just because it was part of him, as obvious as the sunlight his regulars at the Coach and Horses hid from. He was already larger than life, so his Jewishness was large, too, as large as his powerful frame, which only seemed the larger because of, not in spite of, his stooping gait. His was a particular kind of London Jewishness: not of the higher professions, the lawyers, doctors, and businessmen I was familiar with, but adjacent to gangsterism, not by any means a criminal but knowing how to deal with them. One messed with him at one’s peril.

A landlord ought to be larger than life, and in this he completely fitted the bill. The pub he ran, for what seemed like countless years, served a clientele of what may be unkindly but accurately described as a bunch of Soho wrecks: mostly alcoholics, on the periphery of fame, bohemian in spirit, bored and in terror of boredom, flailing against the world and revelling in their semi-pariah status.

Their presiding genius was Jeffrey Bernard, writer of the Low Life column in The Spectator: he would sit balefully at his regular seat at the bar, nursing a succession of vodka-and-sodas, chain- smoking, of course. Everyone chain-smoked, apart from Norman, who was also teetotal.

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