Antwerp has always been a trendy place to visit for business or leisure, not just for diamonds.
Years ago I turned down a job with Price Waterhouse in their new Antwerp office. Then one evening about 10 years ago I was walking along Meir, the main shopping street when I saw a small group of Chasidim ( religious Jews ) wearing black hats and coats, coming out the side door of a church, grinning broadly. I stopped dead as this appeared unreal. I continued walking and found out why as further along the street there was a film crew making a film about the Jews of Antwerp. The real Chasidim had decided not to take part so they had had to hire extras and borrow black hats, coats and stick-on payos which the extras had put on inside the church, using it as a makeshift changing room.
Lamalo is a recent addition to the kosher restaurant scene, largely dominated over the years by the Blue Lagoon ( which seems to have been around for centuries ) and Hoffys, which has been around since 1989. Hoffys still has the distinction of being the only restaurant whose wiener schnitzel portion I could never finish.
The other evening I travelled up from Brussels and turned up at Lamalo, just off De Keyserlei. I was asked if I had a reservation and replied I don't book just for myself. Nonetheless I was shown promptly to a table for one by a charming Filipino waitress. The decor would not shame a London West End restaurant. A large restaurant, with large tables, about 80% full , with some large parties including a fair number of non-Jewish diners.
Senora Filipina inveigled me into a duck liver starter against my better judgement owing to the cholesterol factor. Being in that part of the world, I then chose the veal chop ( about 230gr ) in a cider and shallot sauce accompanied by pommes sautees and braised endives. This was incredibly delicious. A meaty and tender veal chop with crisp sautéed potatoes in a sauce that tasted of cider and potato that tasted of potato and not cooking oil. This was very competent cooking by the Nepalese chef. I cannot recall having had a better kosher meat meal than this in any of the kosher Paris restaurants or in those New York restaurants that I have tried. Accompanied by a brown Leffe beer this was outstanding kosher dining.
The downside was the size of the bill at 51 Euros, although 19 of that was for the liver which was my mistake. This is good stuff.
Unsurprisingly reservations are recommended. Expect to pay around 40 Euro for a starter and main course with a soft drink or beer. Worth it. Wines are Barkan and Yarden.
Antwerp railway station has recently been redeveloped on three levels. There is a new mezzanine shopping level. Whereas St Pancras station in London is full of cafes and sandwich shops, Antwerp station is full of diamond stores.
21 Appelmanstraat, Antwerp
Tel +32 (0) 3 213 2200
http://www.lamalo.com
To get more from opinion, click here to sign up for our free Editor's Picks newsletter.