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Bustling 16th century Antwerp cheekily gave Jews its protection

Attempts to hunt down non-Christian heretics were diffused in the chaos and colour of this significant North Sea port

December 3, 2021 11:20
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5 min read

Antwerp was not just another North Sea port in the 16th century, although it was as filthy, violent, drunken, liable to sudden fires and plague-ridden as all the others. It had spies, dealers, doctors, the first art dealers, the best publishers — the exchange that was a model for all Europe. Even its rivals acknowledged it as the hub of the whole world of trade and European knowledge.

It was even more to the Jews who passed through, long before Antwerp was the diamond city. It was the place to organise escape from the Portuguese Inquisition on the hard road out to Salonika and Istanbul. It was the headquarters of the House of Mendes, the largest merchant and banking operation in Europe, and the astonishing woman at its head, Dona Gracia, who faced down kings and empires to insist on the right to be a Jew. The Antwerp connection even started a campaign to remake Israel — on the island of Cyprus.

To be rich, Antwerp had to be open to every kind of heretic. The Portuguese in the spice trade were “new Christians”, only nominally converted from Judaism, and the metals business depended on assorted German Lutherans and there were Anabaptists everywhere. But Antwerp answered to the Hapsburg Emperor in Madrid and his armies, to Charles V, author of the “eternal edict against heresy.”

Luckily, the Emperor liked to wage hot war, which meant he needed Antwerp’s money. He couldn’t disturb the town too much. All things became possible in such a hustling confusion of a town. Nobody was surprised by foreigners coming and going; women who had never left the city still spoke five or six languages fluently because they needed them. Everybody was some kind of stranger.

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