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Jay Rayner under fire from French gastronomes

The Observer’s restaurant critic may have bitten off more than he can chew with his withering review of Paris’s Le Cinq

April 13, 2017 13:32
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1 min read

Jay Rayner is one of the UK’s pre-eminent food writers. But he doesn’t mince his words. His assessment of Le Cinq in this week’s Observer  is marked by a directness that has become his signature.

The review opens “There is only one thing worse than being served a terrible meal: being served a terrible meal by earnest waiters who have no idea just how awful the things they are doing to you are.”

The restaurant at the Four Seasons Hôtel George V in Paris may boast three-Michelin-stars, but it completely failed to please the restaurant critic who has been called ‘Acid Rayner’

“In terms of value for money and expectation Le Cinq supplied by far the worst restaurant experience I have endured in my 18 years in this job.”