But, perhaps less famously, it was also the hub for a different kind of care – providing a thriving Jewish community shelter and respite from years of vicious persecution and pogroms.
Merano Synagogue and cultural museum (Image: Jacob Jaffa)[Missing Credit]
As the last station on a trans-continental railway line that ran all the way to St Petersburg, Merano became to Eastern Europe what New York’s Ellis Island became to, well, Eastern Europe – taking in the tired, the poor, the huddled masses.
Indeed, a synagogue and Jewish cultural museum still stand proudly in the town centre, a monument, you could say, to its generosity of spirit.
This care for the Jewish community remains today with stringent security around the building – I was even briefly stopped by police as I took photos, at which point my JC business card came in very handy.
Hostage ribbons on the gates of Merano Synagogue (Image: Jacob Jaffa)[Missing Credit]
However, while I came to the area to delve into the cultural history, on strict instructions from JC Travel, it would be remiss of me to deny that I stayed for the stunning views, the fantastic wines and some top-notch food.
Having been the subject of political ping-pong between Germany, Austria and Italy for centuries, South Tyrol is one of the most culturally rich and interesting regions in Europe, with a unique blend of the Germanic and the Mediterranean.
Staying in nearby Bolzano allows visitors to soak up some of the sunshine in rustic countryside one could mistake for Abruzzo, overlooked by towering mountains.
In the lowlands, temperatures reach 30C in the summer and don’t dip too low in winter thanks to the cover provided by the Alps. Yet take a 30-minute drive and you’re on a ski slope.
The region is not yet a red-hot destination among tourists, which means that for now at least it maintains real sense of tranquillity, but is just a two-hour flight in a small propellor plane – the only aircraft that can dance through the mountains into the Bolzano valley – from London Gatwick with Sky Alps.
At €184 each way, the flights are a little dearer than for larger commercial destinations, but you really do get what you pay for.
Evoking the golden age of flying, we were in the air for less than 20 minutes before a charming flight attendant/Mark Strong lookalike named Christof was strolling along the aisle serving a perfectly chilled sauvignon blanc – that alone was worth the ticket price.
No cheap plastic miniatures either, a full glass bottle with an actual cork! This is Italy after all.
View over the infinity pool at Hotel Der Waldhof, Bolzano (Image: Jacob Jaffa)[Missing Credit]
The luxurious theme continued after we landed at Bolzano Airport, a no-frills affair with just one terminal and a pretty speedy passport control booth.
Once there, you can check in to one of the town’s famous wellness hotels, such as Hotel Der Waldhof, part of the Belvita Leading Wellness Hotels Sudtirol stable.
Set in the foothills of the Dolomites, the hotel boasts a wonderful panoramic vista from the front of the building, including at the edge of its remarkable infinity pool, which extends off the cliff face towards a small castle nearby.
At present, those staying at the back of the building do, unfortunately, overlook the car park, but the hotel’s owner reassured our group that the building would be closed for refurbishment into next year, in part to rectify this.
A three-quarter board booking, starting from €360 per night, gives guests a hearty breakfast, including a fresh omelette station, an afternoon tea buffet and an à la carte dinner, all served in the delightful terrace restaurant, with plenty of opportunity for al fresco dining on the many warm evenings.
It also grants full access to the spa and other amenities, including two pools, a massage suite and an extensive sauna complex – though it’s worth noting the latter enforces a strict pro-nudity policy.
And the spa itself is home to one of the largest collections of healing crystals in Europe, all lining the walls in impressive glass display cabinets.
View from the Dorf Tyrol chairlift above Merano (Image: Jacob Jaffa)[Missing Credit]
As for activities outside the hotel, Merano city tours are just €12 per person, providing a walk through the region’s fascinating history.
In fact, observed our guide, the spirit of “cultural coexistence” embodied by the area’s journey through German, Austrian and Italian rule to semi-autonomy might just hold the key to peace in Israel.
Meanwhile, what is certain is that the unique climate and mountain slopes have given rise to a thriving wine industry and top-class attendant tastings. From the innovative modern inventions of City Vinothek to the living, breathing tradition of the slightly more old-school Castle Rametz, you can sip your way through Tyrol, sample award winners and even, as I did, take home a tipple for yourself.
In fact, if you’re travelling with Sky Alps, you can take home up to six bottles from participating wineries tax-free in your luggage.
View of the vineyards at Castle Rametz (Image: Jacob Jaffa)[Missing Credit]
And, if you’re still steady enough after that, you can take the scenic chairlift ride up to the mountain commune of Dorf Tyrol, which boasts some of the best views and best restaurants in the region.
A sun-kissed lunch there, of course accompanied by yet more wine, should prepare you nicely for the return chairlift or the 20-minute walk down the mountainside and a dip in Merano’s famous thermal baths, or perhaps a quick trip to shul, before dinner in the bustling town centre.
We concluded our trip with a luxurious tasting menu at the beautiful Castel Fragsburg hotel, under the auspices of the world famous Relais & Châteaux, featuring some of the finest food and vintage wines any of us had ever experienced.
And, as I sit here writing on a sunny afternoon in London, that is an evening of which I can recall almost every detail, and probably will for many years to come.
I can’t think of any better way to encapsulate the unabating, underappreciated and, often, Jewish joy of a very special holiday.
Book your flight with SkyAlps – https://www.skyalps.com/en/
Stay at Hotel Der Waldhof – https://www.belvita.it/en/belvita-hotels/hotel-der-waldhof
Experience a tasting at City Vinothek – https://www.kellereimeran.it/en/meeting-points/cityvinothek-merano
Explore Castle Rametz – https://www.rametz.com/en/
