Nothing is sacred in battle and the Allies were on the verge of blasting the iconic landmark to bits but Weckstein thought it too wondrous to destroy and would not order an artillery strike. In short, this plutzy Jew saved the Leaning Tower of Pisa and more than 600 years of history.
Crystal Serenity's atrium[Missing Credit]
We were on board Crystal Serenity, where interesting tales are just a small part of a fairy-tale experience. In fact, I have sailed the seas on more than 40 cruises and this company – which also boasts another ship, Crystal Symphony – instantly put you on the crest of a wave.
I have never experienced better food and service in all my ocean travels. And while both vessels have been around a while, they had magnificent refurbishments just a couple of years ago. Forgive, but all is shipshape.
Crystal passengers are meant to feel 'crystallized' – their term for experiencing luxury and refinement. For a start, every cabin has a butler and, if you are thinking butler schmutler, who needs one, bear with. From the moment Mukesh introduced himself, we knew this voyage was going to be rather elevated. Whether it be meticulously laying out breakfast in our suite every morning to having a word with the maitre de to secure a more preferential dining time, Mukesh made it pampering personified.
Drinks, including champagne, are included in the fare and there is no need to feel awkward over tipping because that is also taken care of. Your rooms are made up by suite attendants twice a day, which used to be the norm for cruising and, while some lines have done away with the turndown service, this one hasn't thrown in the towel.
Their high standards were Crystal clear at the Friday Shabbat service, which was set up in style. Many cruise companies offer this but few do it so well. No problem if you forgot to pack your kippah – there was a box full. After lighting the candles in the Hollywood Theatre (used for movies and various events), we were escorted to a separate area for a lovely spread, including challah, gefilte fish, two choices of kosher wine and grape juice. Don't take my word for it: I got chatting to Mickey from New York, who is president at his synagogue, and he was impressed.
Serenity accommodates up to 740 guests, there are staff galore, and more space per passenger than any other ship afloat. Crystal went out of business in 2022 but resurfaced the following year when the world-leading travel company, A&K Travel Group, acquired them. As far as we’re concerned, it is a case of keep up the great work.
We had boarded the ship on a high in Marseille after a couple of days in the port city. It's a fine place to tour and we mostly did it the simple way by using the hop on/hop off Colorbus. We also visited the historic Grande Synagogue de Marseille – one of 40 shuls in the area.
The embarkation experience on Serenity really is plain sailing, and in a matter of minutes you are no longer holding your case but a glass of bubbly instead.
And from life jackets – relax, just for observing the mandatory safety drill – it could then be dinner jackets as you enter the Waterside Restaurant for a treat of the taste buds. And this is their 'standard' restaurant. The food choices were from two full menus that changed daily and Ilisa, who keeps kosher, was absolutely delighted every time with a variety of fish, salads, pastas and desserts, all beautifully presented.
There are also three speciality restaurants, with the Italian our favourite. The risotto was especially good. One evening after a long tour, our butler brought room service and we dined on the balcony with the sun reflecting off a gentle sea before it went to sleep. We called it a night but only after cosily watching one of many movies available on our TV.
Our excursion that day was memorable... a visit to the medieval city of Lucca in Italy's Tuscany region. The previous day we had been in Portofino on the Italian Riviera. Either place would have been a shame to leave had the Serenity not been our return venue. Staff knew the score as every time we got back on board, we were greeted with, "Welcome home". As we departed each port, Louis Armstrong’s classic, What a Wonderful World, was played.
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Mark Silver and his partner Ilisa in Portofino[Missing Credit]
Choice is the name of the game with cruising whether it be, for example, taking in a specialist talk, an arts & crafts workshop, hitting a few golf balls in the nets, a fabulous spa treatment, or choosing which bar to enjoy a pre or after-dinner drink. In the Stardust Club lounge before dinner there was even a rendition of Hava Nagila as part of a rousing show. Later we raised a glass to singer-songwriter James Fox, whose Billy Joel headlining performance in the delightful Galaxy Lounge was well worthy of a man who has performed in the West End and on Broadway.
Another treat is afternoon tea in the Palm Court where, on our visit, sensational violinist Adriana played some enchanting stuff. Meantime, the delicate scones were a hit with me. Cruise lines have long done away with the exquisite midnight buffet (although food is available around the clock on Crystal, including late nibbles). Ironically, one of the health seminars taking place while we were at tea was entitled: Secrets to a Flatter Stomach, hosted by the fitness director. Oh well, that’s one secret I won’t be spoiling.
Crystal have reintroduced casinos, which have all the glitter you would expect including live tables and plenty of slot machines. They were certainly busy when I ventured in but the only chips I was having were at the pool's Trident Grill.
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The Trident Grill[Missing Credit]
Our cruise ended in Rome, where our highlights were a final treat (for our anniversary) at La Pergola restaurant, where the ninth-floor views are almost a match for the incredible food by Heinz Beck. We walked it off the next day with a guided tour of the Colosseum and Roman Forum by the excellent Eyes of Rome.
Who knew that the gladiators were not built like Russell Crowe but intentionally fat to better absorb their wounds? It made me feel a bit better about my weight gain.
Ilisa and I have given Crystal the thumbs up and won't be fighting over our next cruise choice. Leaning Tower of Pisa stories or not... the decision is as clear as a bell.
Prices for Crystal’s 2026 Mediterranean cruises start from £4,300 per person based on an eight-night sailing from Marseille to Civitavecchia on Crystal Serenity departing 2 June 2026. Price includes all meals and drinks, WiFi, port fees and gratuities.
Call Crystal on 0808 175 0932 or visit: crystalcruises.com
