Archaeologist Luciano Waldman is on a mission to celebrate the city’s Jewish history
August 20, 2025 16:38
In the heart of Lisbon, a remarkable story of rediscovery and preservation is unfolding. Luciano Waldman, an archaeologist with roots in Brazil and Israel, has dedicated his life to uncovering and promoting the rich Jewish heritage of Portugal, as I discovered on a recent visit to the city.
"I grew up in Israel and lived there until I was 28. I’m 36 now,” says Waldman whose academic pursuits in archaeology and community building culminated in the creation of a Jewish institution called Jewish Cultural Center Rua da Judiaria.
Googling “Jewish historical area in Lisbon”, my search directed me to the same street: Rua da Judaria. On a previous visit, I had visited Shaare Tikvah in Rato, about half an hour’s walk away. Built in 1904 it was the first synagogue to be constructed from scratch since the expulsion of Jews in 1497. It’s now home to a growing community.
Luciano Waldman[Missing Credit]
Armed with Google maps, I was next led to a street in the Alfama district, the oldest area of the city. There we saw a door with a menorah painted on it, a mezuzah on a side and box labelled “tzedakah” in Hebrew. One wall was adorned with ceramic plaques decorated with Jewish symbols and another with wrought-iron Hebrew writing. The latter was made by Dede Bandaid and Nitzan Mintz, the creators of the iconic “KidnappedFromIsrael” October 7 hostage posters.
A chance meeting with Waldman’s father Sylvio led to an introduction to meet him.
“We’re steadily getting more people involved,” says Waldman.
I wanted somewhere that would depict Judaism and Portugal, so along with a title showing candlesticks, there’s a rooster, the symbol of Portugal
Together with Sylvio, he bought the property on Rua da Judaria and is steadily excavating it with a view to eventually turning it into a proper community centre and a café serving Sephardi cuisine. His mother Vera, an artist, created the outside ceramic decorations. “I wanted something that would depict Judaism and Portugal, so along with say a tile showing candlesticks or a dreidel, there’s a rooster, which is the symbol of Portugal,” he says.
When the centre opens Waldman intends to keep some of his excavations exposed, surrounded by glass. As with all things, the eventual completion is dependent on monies raised. Waldman himself runs Jewish cultural tours not just in Lisbon but in other parts of the country. “I want it to be self-sustaining,” he says.
The excavation has not been without its challenges. Waldman faced bureaucratic hurdles and financial constraints. “It took a year to get the authorisations for the digging,” he notes. He has found several historical artefacts but none related to Jewish history.
One of his most significant projects involves the installation of Stolpersteine, or “stumbling stones”, to commemorate victims of the Holocaust. “In September, we will place one Stolpersteine and two Stolperschwellen.
These are large plaques that commemorate multiple victims rather than the individual,” Waldman says. One plaque will be placed at the iconic Rossio Station in Rossio Square. “It was the second largest place, after arriving by boat, that most Jews arrived into Portugal,” he says. “During the war there was a kind of Kindertransport where 295 children arrived from Germany and France.” Another Stolperschwellen will be placed on the site of the Economic Kitchen, a facility that provided refugees with food, clothing, and healthcare.
Luciano’s vision extends beyond the Jewish Cultural Centre. He is also working on a project called “Jew Where”, which aims to map Jewish heritage sites across Europe. “We start here, but the idea is to implement this project all over Europe,” he explains. This initiative will use QR codes on walls around the city to provide information about Jewish history, making it accessible to anyone with a smartphone.
Despite the progress, Luciano acknowledges the challenges of promoting Jewish heritage in a modern context. He recounts instances of vandalism and antisemitism, highlighting the need for continued education and awareness. “It’s so unfair to take revenge on the Jewish community,” he says. These experiences underscore the importance of the centre’s work in fostering understanding and tolerance.
Looking ahead, Waldman remains optimistic. He envisions a thriving Jewish community in Lisbon, supported by a strong foundation of cultural and historical awareness. “We are in the process of growing,” he says. His efforts are not just about preserving the past but also about building a vibrant future for Jewish life in Portugal.
Waldman’s story is a testament to the power of passion and perseverance. Through his work, he has brought Lisbon’s Jewish heritage to the forefront, creating a space where history is not only remembered but celebrated.
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