Journeying in from Hamburg, you know you’re getting close when you start to glimpse its seven church spires, dating back to medieval times: a panoramic introduction to whet the appetite.
So having been dropped off at our waterside hotel, we wandered out to explore at closer quarters. We started by the imposing Holstentor, the twin tower brick gothic edifice built in the 15th century, a remnant of the medieval city fortifications.
More recently, as a key German port, Lubeck was bombed heavily during the war by the RAF but the city’s restoration has been hugely impressive and the cobbled streets and distinctive houses radiate a bygone charm.
From Holstentor, it is a short walk to the town hall, itself home to a wealth of historical treasures and ornate decoration, before venturing down mazy alleyways lined with a mix of residential properties, cultural venues, cafes and drinking dens.
The profusion of winding streets initially make navigation a little problematic. But the realisation soon dawned that Lubeck is one of those destinations where its many attractions are pretty much all within walking distance — and if you take a wrong turn, you are seemingly never far from a familiar landmark.
Although the Lubeck population exceeds 200,000, the feel is of a more relaxed town with friendly locals — even if many do want to ask about Brexit. Think of Oxford or Cambridge without the crowds.
Yes, there are the standard chain stores — or the Germanic equivalent — in the main shopping thoroughfare.
Yet wander beyond along the cobbled streets and you will discover a multitude of independent bookstores, quirky homeware purveyors, gift shops and arts outlets that have largely been forced out of UK high streets. Oh, and numerous stockists of marzipan and related sweet things.
Marzipan, you see, is Lubeck’s additional claim to fame, both within and outside Germany’s borders.
Before the trip, this was not a major selling point in my terms as I’ve never been a massive fan of the almond and sugar confection, thinking of it mostly as a means to spoil a perfectly good cake. Yet on sampling (heavily) the Niederegger products, my opinion changed radically.
A family firm now in its seventh generation of management, Niederegger is an integral part of Lubeck history.
It was established by confectioner Johann Georg Niederegger in 1806 and his recipe for high quality marzipan goods has stood the test of time — and its “secret ingredient” remains so, with employees required to sign confidentiality agreements.
Indeed the general public are not allowed into the Niederegger factory — a decent drive from the city’s main attractions — although there is an adjacent factory store, where the stock includes some significantly discounted lines for sweet-toothed bargain hunters.
In contrast, the Niederegger Cafe has been a fixture in the heart of the city for more than 200 years and today retails all manner of the company’s product range — some with kosher certification — to take away from the ground floor shop.
There are the usual seasonal offerings such as hearts for Valentine’s Day, as well as more personalised sweet things for special occasions or achievements.
Given that it’s Germany, it is hardly surprising that Bayern Munich themed items are particularly popular. Otherwise, take your pick from a choice of more than 300 goodies, from chocolate bars to ice cream.
We found the cafe itself rammed with locals at lunchtime, sitting down for a leisurely social over a diverse menu of savoury plates and, inevitably, marzipan waffles or pancakes for dessert.
Hardcore marzipan aficionados even have the option of an on-site museum, although that was a step too far for me.
However, by far the culinary highlight of the visit was dinner at Schiffergesellschaft, a restaurant and pub in a guildhall building with a history dating back centuries. The interior has been lovingly restored and antique maritime artefacts and murals adorn the dimly lit and cavernous premises.
The menu, with English translation, is presented in the form of a tabloid supplement and headlines include a good number of fish, pasta and veggie options, albeit with a Germanic twist.
For me, it had to be the fried sweet and sour pickled herring from the specials list, served with onion rings. Our waiter approved of the choice and I was impressed with his from the craft beer selection after I had explained my preferred brews.
Portions are big and, looking across our long table, I could only admire the capacity of one dining companion who ordered the rumtopf, a mountainous and hugely alcoholic dessert.
Leaving, somewhat reluctantly, for the short walk back to the hotel, the city’s nocturnal charms were even more apparent, with its monuments illuminated against the night sky.
No surprise that the locals recommend visits as the year draws on, especially in December when there’s an array of winter markets to add to the usual attractions.
In summer, as well as a sailing festival, the city is part of the Schleswig Holstein Music Festival, the biggest cultural event in the region which features artists from across the globe.
Instead of concerts held in the usual purpose-built auditoriums and opera houses, they take place in castles and manors, in churches and even in shipyards and industrial buildings.
You can doubtless order marzipan ice cream during the interval too.
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