HAITI'S HIGHS: PORT-AU-PRINCE
The capital may appear dirty, noisy and a bit scary, but look beyond first impressions and here is a city of surprises, full of friendly, resilient people who are creative and inventive. The art scene is vibrant, from galleries to stalls, walls and spaces covered in Haiti's distinctive painting and ironwork. In the restored Iron Market voodoo accessories, sculptures and wall hangings are for sale at reasonable prices. The 18th century Gothic Oloffson hotel, with its white towers and gingerbread latticework, is a destination in itself. The creaky Gothic building with its voodoo statues is full of star-studded ghosts - Noel Coward was a guest in its heyday, and from the 1940s to the '80s, celebrities from John Gielgud to Jackie Onassis and Mick Jagger partied here. It was where Graham Greene based his novel The Comedians.
Although parts are still being rebuilt, the city centre has a number of interesting sites such as the Musée du Panthéon National, where the anchor from Columbus's Santa Maria is on display, and the statue of The Unknown Slave, a monument to freedom fighters built to celebrate the nation's remarkable story, stands nearby.
STAY: The Kinan
This interesting hotel is actually two in one: the charming original building with "vintage" rooms; and a sleek, modern hotel. It is in the Petition Ville neighbourhood - the leafy district of Port-au-Prince, six miles from the airport, and has an outdoor pool, two restaurants, shops and WiFI.
CITADEL
The only nation to overthrow slavery, Haiti has a fascinating history and the Citadelle Laferrière is the largest and oldest fortress in the Western hemisphere. Built in 1804, it's a steep hike up to it (it's 3,000 feet above sea level) but it's a sight well worth seeing. You can travel there on horseback, accompanied by friendly Haitian boys.
At the foot of the hill is the crumbling grandeur of the "Versailles of the Caribbean": the Palace Sans Souci, the vision of Henri Christophe, self-proclaimed king of Haiti crowned in 1811.
Carnival is investing US$70 million at nearby Ile de la Tortue, and Royal Caribbean, which brings 600,000 day visitors a year to the country, is starting excursions next year to the Citadelle.
CAP HAITIEN
This area near the town of Cap Haitien, with its elegant colonial buildings, is one of the most rapidly developing. Improvements to roads, funded by the World Bank, have already made it accessible to tourists visiting beach hotels, which have the ambience of a traditional Caribbean resort. Some also include voodoo tours that explore Haiti's mysterious spiritual side.
STAY: L'Habitation Jouissant
This boutique hotel overlooking the sea is just a 15-minute drive from Cap Haitien airport and close to beaches and the Citadelle. It has a lovely bar and restaurant, swimming pool and comfortable rooms, some with telescopes on their balconies so that you can view the bright lights below.
www.habitationjouissant.com
JACMEL
Bassin-Bleu, hidden in the hills above the picturesque seaside town of Jacmel, is three deep, crystal-clear blue pools of water that you clamber down to with ropes; you'll be rewarded with an exhilarating swim in a grotto said to be visited by nymphs.
Jacmel was a coffee and sugar port, and its quiet streets and colourful clapboard houses are an oasis of calm. Hotel Florita is an 18th century warehouse furnished with old coffee processing equipment. Like everywhere, it is decked out with papier mâché, carnival costumes and elaborate metal work.
STAY: La Colline Enchantee
A pretty hotel with rooms in bungalows dotted around tropical gardens in Marigot, a seaside town just out-
side Jacmel. Facilities include a pool and restaurant.
It is run on sustainable lines by husband and wife team Michele and Michel Gehy, and it is popular with walkers and birdwatchers.
www.collineenchantee.ht
GETTING THERE
FLY: Air France (www.airfrance.co.uk) flies to Haiti via Paris; Copa Airlines (www.copaair.com) flies via Panama; American Airlines (www.aa.com), Delta (www.delta.com) and Jet Blue (www.jetblue.com) fly via New York and Miami. Haiti makes up the western part of the island of Hispaniola, which it shares with the Dominican Republic. The Dominican Republic has daily flights from the UK, and the journey across the border can be made by road, or by plane with Air Caraïbes (www.aircaraibes.com)
