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Travel

Artist haunts are picture perfect

Anthea Gerrie heads for the postcard-friendly Kent coast to follow in the footsteps of Turner and Tracey Emin

May 3, 2012 17:32
Margate:  Described by Turner as having ‘the loveliest skies in Europe’

By

Anthea Gerrie,

Anthea Gerrie

4 min read

Those of us who remember Margate and Cliftonville from childhood seaside holidays now have a reason to travel back to the East Kent coast on a sentimental journey. It's one which would have brought tears to many eyes just a few years ago, given the sharp decline of a string of resorts once popular with Jewish holidaymakers.
But the towns along this sandy stretch of coast whose luminous light dazzled Turner are slowly being regenerated with the help of a new gallery named for the great British artist.

The Turner Gallery has already exceeded visitor expectations more than three times in its first year, with 500,000 visitors flocking to the big angled box overlooking Margate beach both to see the art and enjoy an upmarket meal on its terrace.

On one side the harbour arm - the closest thing the resort has to a pier - beckons with art galleries, bars and cafes overlooking a broad sweep of beach. On the other side of the main road a prettied-up Old Town is now home to a lively jazz scene.

The modernist theme park Dreamland, which has for so long stood derelict, will take a while to renovate. But meanwhile Margate offers many other entertainments. Mystery-lovers will marvel at the Shell Grotto, an underground mosaic temple whose meaning and maker have remained unknown since the grotto was uncovered in Victorian times. Elsewhere, little boys and their dads are well catered for at the Hornby Visitor Centre, with its great display of old train sets, modern Scalextric, historic Corgi cars and Airfix models.

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