Time stands still in these woodland hills

As a 24-year-old who lives in Hackney and works in the city, a staycation in Malvern appealed. The concept of “slow living” is one with which I’m unfamiliar, and for a weekend The Cottage in the Wood hotel promised to give me a taste of it.

The motto of this four-star hotel is ‘where time is yours’, and with a location set against the backdrop of the magnificent Malvern hills, and the view from our room – my boyfriend Harvey was my plus-one – overlooking acres of greenery, it actually did feel that time stood still for a night or two.

Overlooking the Malvern hills[Missing Credit]

But my mission was to discover if Malvern had any Jewish history, and I am glad to share that it does. Thanks to the Malvern Museum website, I discovered that this tranquil village is the final resting place of Shoah survivor and Austrian artist, Frieda Salvendy. The museum was only a short drive from our hotel, so we decided to pay a visit.

Malvern Museum[Missing Credit]

An older, petite lady, wearing a cross necklace, answered my knock at the door. The museum was closed for renovation, she said, pointing to the sign outside. But when I said I only wanted to know a bit more about Frieda, her eyes lit up. 

It turned out Faith, and what a fitting name for my new acquaintance, is the person who has brought Frieda’s story into the public realm, even if she is still trying to fill in some information gaps. She has consulted archives, filed Wikipedia entries and written about the artist for the museum’s website.  Amid the museum’s boxes scattered on the floor, Faith told me about Frieda’s pre-war years in Cornwall, which were “really happy days”, and her return to central Europe to be with her ailing mother. It was in Mousehole, Cornwall, that she met Anna Grace, to whom she left everything in her will and with whom, Faith suspects, she was likely romantically involved.

Frieda was in Prague when it was occupied by Nazi Germany in March 1939. It is unclear how she escaped to Malvern, but it seems likely to assume that it was to be with Anna who, at the time, was living near to what is now The Cottage in the Wood hotel. 

I wasn’t sure what Jewish history Malvern might reveal, but a plausibly lesbian Jewish artist who escaped Nazi-occupied Europe was definitely not in my predictions.

Frieda Salvendy's grave with its Magen David headstone[Missing Credit]

In 2021, Ajex archivist Martin Sugarman was granted permission to erect a new headstone for Frieda in Malvern Cemetery where it is the only Magen David in a sea of crucifixes. I placed a small stone on her grave. 

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Back at the hotel, I had a chat with head chef Mark Potts, who is no stranger to kosher food having catered a kosher wedding before.  Whilst I don’t keep kosher, he reassured me that any guest who does can discuss their requirements with him beforehand. Then again, the hotel restaurant’s vegetarian and fish dishes are delicious. 

The 1919 Restaurant is also clearly a local favourite. “We try to keep a relaxed vibe where people can dress up or down,” Mark tells me, “but they still know they’ll enjoy really good quality food.”

My personal highlights from the set menu were the flavour-packed cod roe emulsion, the smoked salmon fillet that cut like butter, and the chef’s pre-dessert (who knew such a wonderful thing existed!); a rose and geranium panna cotta with lychee and lime zest.

The 1919 Restaurant[Missing Credit]The smoked salmon fillet is part of the eight-dish set menu[Missing Credit]

After a gorgeous night’s sleep, we decided to try out the hiking trail into the Malvern hills. But not before breakfast: Eggs Royale accompanied by a view of the sun sweeping over Malvern.

The hiking trail took a little over an hour as a loop from the hotel car park. We foraged wild garlic, drank out of a fresh spring water tap, and patted many dogs on our adventure. By the time we got back to the hotel, families were already filing into the hotel restaurant for afternoon tea.

Harvey makes a four-legged friend in the Malvern woodland[Missing Credit]

Driving back into Malvern centre on our way home, we passed a large flea market that sets up its stalls in the village once every three weeks. For just £6 entry fee, we spent two hours acquiring various tchotchkes. But if your taste and wallet is less second-hand nick nacks and more tasteful homeware and threads, head to nearby Malvern village. 

On the drive back home to Hackney we both commented on how refreshed we felt. When we usually go away, it is to run around a European city from which we return not feeling like we’ve really had a break. It was nice to come back from a holiday feeling less tired than when we left.

I would urge anyone planning a slow-living staycation to consider Malvern. I give you my word that its awe-inspiring nature, friendly locals, four-legged and otherwise, and quiet air will revitalise your soul (and lungs!) I would also encourage Chabad to consider setting up a branch in Malvern, UK –  there is more Jewish history in the cracks of this town than you might expect.

A one-night B&B stay in a 'Cosy Room' at four-star The Cottage in the Wood Malvern (www.cottageinthewood.co.uk) is priced from £129 per night for two adults. Dinner, bed & breakfast packages are also available.

The 1919 Restaurant is now open on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights serving a seven-course tasting menu (£95 per head).

 Call 01684 588 860 or email reception@cottageinthewood.co.uk