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The rainbow radiance of Olivia Rubin's designs

Sandy Rashty meets a designer who counts on colour

December 23, 2021 11:32
Olivia Rubin
4 min read

To celebrate turning 40, Olivia Rubin designed a second wedding dress.
Wearing a white sequin gown with a multi-coloured tulle skirt, the British designer — who is known for her rainbow aesthetic — marked the moment in style, as she partied with loved ones in London last month.
“Turning 40 is a milestone,” she says. “It feels like a bit of a rebirth.”
She shared a picture of that dress with her 225,000 Instagram followers. “That was a mistake,” she laughs. “I kept getting asked when it will be available to buy. Maybe we’ll put it in next summer’s bridal collection.”
But she nearly missed that moment.
“At first, I did not know what I wanted to do, what I would wear or if I wanted to do anything at all. The party ended up being organised at the very last minute.”
“There has just been so much going on,” says the mum-of-two daughters, aged eight and five. “With the collection and the kids, I always end up leaving my own things to the last minute.”
Over the past year, Rubin has been busier than ever. Under her namesake womenswear brand, she has launched a concession in Harrods, collaborated with luxury department store Liberty London on a collection of quilts, cushions and kitchenware, and even opened her first shop in Marylebone last month.


She has dressed celebrities in her brightly coloured clothes, from TV presenters Fearne Cotton and Holly Willoughby to singer Katy Perry and actress Lena Dunham. She has always shunned the neutral palettes common on the high-street, saying: “I am definitely not a nude, neutral person.
“I am very anti-rules, especially when it comes to dressing. I think individuals should dress for themselves, and there is something about an injection of colour and how it can make you feel.”
Over the pandemic her following soared, perhaps as a result of her loungewear range coinciding with lockdown — or maybe because her rainbow aesthetic struck a chord with the tributes paid to NHS workers.
Either way, with more people buying her collection online, over the past year she has had to increase her staffing from the studio to the shop by 300 per cent, from just three employees this time last year, to 12.
“We saw a huge growth on our website over lockdown, so we are now investing a lot in re-doing it. Our wholesale business has also grown this year, so we have to invest in growth and general customer service.”
“As you can tell, I don’t even have much time for calls,” she says, as she juggles our interview with putting on her make-up ahead of a meeting.
She has to work months in advance. “We are now designing and selling our collection for next year, from summer to the pre-fall 2022 collection.
At the same time, we are dealing with all the shipping requests before Christmas. We are not winding down, this time of year is always super busy.”
A former South Hampstead High School student, Rubin, the daughter of Dune of London shoe company founder Daniel Rubin, graduated with a Fashion Print BA from the acclaimed Central Saint Martins. She then worked with Alexander McQueen and John Galliano before setting up her own brand.
Whilst design is at the heart of what she does best, she has found a way to combine her artistry with her business.