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Returning to Berlin: Haunted by a house

One writer explores the soul of a unified Germany through the ruins of his family’s abandoned home

October 22, 2015 11:10
Above: West Berliners anjoy the lakeside sunshine

By

Anonymous,

Anonymous

5 min read

In July 2013, I travelled from London to Berlin to visit the lake house my great-grandfather had built. Picking up a rental car at Schönefeld airport, I headed west along the ring road, through Berlin's western suburbs, and into the Brandenburg countryside. Forty minutes after starting my journey, I arrived at the small village of Gross Glienicke, in what had been East Germany.I parked the car and set off for the house. It had been 20 years since I had last visited this place and nothing looked familiar. Although wary of trespassing, I ducked under a strand of barbed wire and pushed my way through a field of shoulder-high grass, heading in the direction of what I guessed was the lake.

To my left stood a row of modern brick houses. To my right stretched an unkempt hedge. And then, there it was, my family's house. It was smaller than I remembered, not much larger than a sports pavilion or double garage, hidden by bushes, vines and trees. Its windows were patched with plywood. The almost flat black roof was cracked and covered with fallen branches. The brick chimneys seemed to be crumbling, close to collapse.

I picked my way round it slowly, touching flaking paintwork and boarded-up doorways, until I found a broken window. Climbing through, my way illuminated by my iPhone, I was confronted by mounds of dirty clothes and soiled cushions, walls covered in graffiti and crawling with mould, smashed appliances and fragments of furniture, rotting floorboards and empty beer bottles. One room looked as if it had been used as a drug den, littered with broken lighters and soot-stained spoons. There was a sadness to the place, the melancholy of a building abandoned.

After a few minutes, I clambered back out of the window and walked towards the house next door, hoping to find someone to speak with. I was lucky, for a woman was working in the garden.