Head north for an Israeli getaway with a difference

Slow-ness on Kibbutz Moran in the Lower Galilee  is an adult-only wellness retreat blends the authenticity and simplicity of kibbutz life with the aesthetics and comfort of a boutique hotel, along with an exquisite farm-to-table restaurant.

The hotel rooms are the renovated volunteer rooms of the kibbutz. Everything is beautifully designed, yet unpretentious. Hidden between the rows of rooms are wooden jacuzzis, shaded by the surrounding plants, saunas, and a small swimming pool. There is a well-equipped studio, featuring yoga, Pilates and other classes throughout the week that are free for hotel guests. During our stay, while my friend took a pre-dinner run to watch the sunset over the Galilean countryside, I took part in an energetic breathing, movement and visualisation workshop, led by Itay Alon, a natural health coach and member of the kibbutz.

The beating heart of the resort is the old kibbutz dining room that functions as a cafe and communal workplace by day and Moran Slow Dining restaurant by night. The kitchen is managed by Chef Nitay Yahalom who grew up on Kibbutz Moran and worked for many years in leading restaurants in Tel Aviv, including North Abraxas and Hasalon under Chef Eyal Shani, Abie and Ca Phe Hanoi.

Food focus: Chef Nitay Yahalom prepares gourmet mealsTal Sivan-Ziporin

The café and restaurant menus are unshowy but deeply thoughtful, with every dish crafted from seasonal, local and sustainable ingredients. The chef and his team make as much as possible from scratch and other ingredients come from local suppliers to help support the economy of the region.

As hotel guests, we were allowed to have brunch anytime between 9 am and 3 pm. We chose a selection of dishes that we felt showcased the types of dishes on the menu.

The hydroponic leaf salad, tossed with citrus fillets, caramelised nuts, and a citrus vinaigrette, was covered with a snow fall of shaved parmesan. It was crisp and bright and evoked “wellness on a plate” dish. The fatayer, a traditional Galilean pastry filled with wild spinach and hyssop, was flakey and warm, served with a bowl of luxuriously thick labneh drizzled with olive oil. Earthy, tangy, and deeply satisfying.

A comforting fried egg came on toasted bread with roasted tomato, green onion, and parmesan—a dish that proved simple ingredients, when treated well, can be extraordinary.

For dinner, the evening began with cocktails that set the tone for what was to come. The mandarin negroni was a fresh twist on the classic, the bitter-orange notes softened into something more playful. The slow sour, with vodka, ginger, vermouth, and lemon, was herbal and clean, a perfect aperitif. Each cocktail was garnished with fresh herbs from the nearby garden, a themed that followed through in all the dishes we received.

We started with warm, chewy focaccia, served with harissa butter and a rich romesco dip—spicy, earthy, and gone in seconds. The gilt-head bream sashimi was as beautiful as it was fresh: lightly cured fish paired with peeled Maggi tomatoes, their intense umami balanced by silky avocado. It was a dish that felt like summer on a plate.

The fakus salad was a celebration of textures and contrasts: Armenian cucumber, pickled cucumber, slivers of red onion, sweet apricot, and toasted almonds, all tied together with tangy purslane leaves. It was the kind of dish that tastes like it came straight from the garden, in the best possible way.

Zucchini flowers were delicately battered, set atop a cooling tomato gazpacho and paired with roasted okra and spiced yogurt. A dish with depth, color, and flair. The asparagus Caesar was equally inventive, with fine chips adding crunch and a zesty lime kosho—a Japanese condiment that gave an unexpected and welcome hit of citrusy heat.

The polenta was made from fresh corn, rather than cornmeal, giving a thicker texture and sweetness to the dish, which was balanced by the roasted tomatoes and fiery green schug. I devoured the potato agnolotti, plump and silky, bathed in a white wine butter sauce, was elevated comfort food. But the winning dish was the sea bass fillet, served with tomato butter, bok choy, and a “spelt flute” (think elegant breadstick). The fish was perfectly cooked—crisp skin, flaky flesh, and a pool of buttery sauce. Classic French cuisine with a local Galilean twist. We ended the meal with an almond and blueberry tart, which was delicate and not overly sweet or heavy.

Amirey Hagalil

Plant based - the verdant lobby at Amirey Hagalil[Missing Credit]

In a region fast filled with glossy, Instagram-fueled spa hotels where the guests seem more interested in capturing selfies than soul-soothing serenity, Amirey Hagalil offers something refreshingly different: genuine peace, timeless beauty, and warm hospitality — without the price tag or the pretense.

Located near to Moshav Amirim, not far from the mystical city of Safed, Amirey Hagalil is a boutique hotel with understated elegance and charm. Surrounded by Galilee vineyards, forests, and winding country roads, this serene retreat is the kind of place that makes you exhale deeply the moment you arrive.

Unlike Israel’s new wave of design-heavy, influencer-driven hotels, Amirey Hagalil feels grounded and inclusive. It’s child-free (a rare treat for couples or solo travellers seeking real calm) and consciously welcoming to a wide range of guests — from secular Tel Avivians looking to unplug, to ultra-Orthodox visitors in search of a modest, restful escape and Mehadrin food. Its affordability and unpretentious luxury appeal especially to slightly older guests, 30+, who want comfort, tranquility, and access to nature — not club music by the pool or a selfie wall in the lobby.

This is not a hotel for those chasing clout on social media. It is, however, ideal for those chasing sunsets, slow mornings, and a deeper appreciation for Israel’s northern treasures. From here, guests can easily explore the surrounding wineries — including some of the best boutique producers in the Galilee — as well as Druze villages, nature reserves, ancient synagogues, and scenic walking trails.

The hotel features a small but professional spa, with treatments tailored to relax and rejuvenate. I was fortunate to receive treatment from the spa manager who was experienced in both deep tissue massage and reflexology, a wonderful combination. The indoor jacuzzi offers breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside, making it the ideal place to relax after my treatment.

As the hotel is so secluded, all hotel stays are on a half-board basis and include dinner in the Bein Kramin restaurant (Mehadrin). Our meal began with a generous selection of tapas and dips, served with house-baked rosemary sourdough. This was followed by a comforting, creamed root vegetable soup — full of earthy flavour and warmth — and a refreshing mango sorbet palate cleanser.

For the main course we were asked to choose from nine main dishes and we decided to share the brisket feedlot marbled steak, smoked with garden herbs and served over sweet potato carpaccio, and the lightly smoked ribs, glazed with honey and garlic, accompanied by a silky mash and garlic confit. Both dishes were tasty and comforting.

But it was dessert that truly captured the kitchen’s creativity. In a gracious gesture, we were served four of the five available options — each one beautifully plated and packed with flavour:

· A rich chocolate nemesis with chocolate cream, caramel tuille and chocolate and vanilla crumbles.

· Hot apple pie with walnut crumble, vanilla ice cream and kadaif.

· A fragrant orange malabi, elevated by wild berry coulis and a crisp kadaif topping.

· and the unexpected winner: a lemon and basil tart, with golden Italian meringue — tart, herbal, and utterly unique.

The desserts struck a rare balance of indulgence and finesse. Even among Israel’s best hotel restaurants, this was a particularly thoughtful offering.

We accompanied our meal with a bottle of Shamay Galilee Shilat Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 which was recommended to us by our waiter as he lives on Moshav Kfar Shamai where the wine is produced. We both enjoyed the wine so much that we went to visit the winery the next day to taste more of their wines and to buy a few bottles to take home.

Breakfast is served in the same restaurant, with a varied buffet. As well as the usual cheeses, salads and pastries, stand out items included a large fruit press to squeeze your own orange juice, flavoured butters, crumbly quiches and a selection of grilled vegetables.

Amirey Hagalil is the kind of place you come back to — not because it’s the newest or flashiest, but because it genuinely makes you feel at ease. For those seeking an Israeli getaway with depth, character, and affordability — one where Mehadrin kosher dining meets real rest — Amirey Hagalil is well worth discovering.

Whether you're visiting Israel on a spiritual journey, a wine-tasting tour, or simply to reconnect with nature and yourself, this boutique hotel offers something rare: space to slow down and truly enjoy the land.

slow-ness, Kibbutz Moran

Amirey Hagalil Hotel, near Moshav Amirim

Debbie Kandel is a food and travel writer and founder of Debbest Israel. More info on her tailor-made tasting tours of Shuk Machane Yehuda here.