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Review: Crossing Mandelbaum Gate

Jerusalem’s crucible

August 19, 2010 10:19
December 1963: people queue on the Israeli side of the Mandelbaum Gate to spend Christmas in the Jordan sector

ByAnonymous, Anonymous

1 min read

By Kai Bird
Simon & Schuster, £17.99

This is an engaging memoir, although its subtitle - Coming of Age between the Arabs and the Israelis 1956-1978 - is a misnomer. In fact, the author arrived in east Jerusalem with his parents as a four-year-old a few weeks before the Suez War of 1956. He was evacuated with his mother to Beirut at the outset of hostilities, did not return until the summer of 1957, and spent only a further few months crossing to school in west Jerusalem.

Thereafter, his father was posted to Saudi Arabia, Egypt and India. So Bird's hazy childhood memories of Jerusalem are fleshed out with biographical portraits of Palestinian personalities such as George Antonius, author of The Arab Awakening, required reading for all State Department Arabists, and his widow Katy, formidable doyenne of Palestinian salon society, whose lover General Sir Evelyn Barker, GOC of British Forces in Mandate Palestine, was a dyed-in-the-wool antisemite.

These pen pictures are always interesting, and his evocation of daily life on either side of the Mandelbaum Gate still resonates for those of us whose first experience of Jerusalem was around that time. To my shame, I did not know until reading this book that the Sheikh Jarrah district took its name from Saladin's surgeon, that the American Colony Hotel had been established by a small group of devout Christians from the mid-West, and that Simchoh and Esther Mandelbaum's landmark three-storey house at the end of Shmuel Hanavi Street was to become the eponymous dividing line between the New (Jewish) City and Arab Jerusalem.