Opinion

From Gaza to Gail’s: The Guardian’s moral collapse over a north London café

We know people hold the appalling opinions expressed in the piece. It remains staggering that a national newspaper, one that is read around the world, thought it appropriate to publish such bile

March 19, 2026 15:38
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A small rally outside the Guardian’s offices protesting the column
3 min read

I didn’t think anything about the post-October 7 explosion of antisemitism could shock me anymore. Then I read Jonathan Liew’s recent screed in The Guardian.

Liew, a football and opinion writer on the paper and a regular on podcasts and TV, decided his attentions should turn not to the plight of Iran’s female footballers, preparations for the World Cup or even the latest miscarriages of justice inflicted by VAR. No, he went to Archway and Palestinian Café Metro there, one that just so happens to be opposite a regularly vandalised new Gail’s.

Now a chain, Gail’s was founded by an Israeli some three decades ago and currently has an investor with links to Israeli defence firms. That means protestors regard daubing it in paint as a perfectly rational reaction. Obviously. I’m personally more offended by the limited number of gluten free options it offers.

The stomach-churning descriptions of what is almost certainly delicious food in Café Metro make Liew’s column a “honking piece of restaurant writing,” as Giles Coren put it on Twitter. More sinister is the way Liew compares this small, independent establishment to the Gail’s across the road.

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