Hake burger with harissa aioli and rugelach bread-and-butter pud… Observer food critic Jay seemed hardly able to believe his taste-buds in a rave review over two pages of Zest, the kosher restaurant at London’s new JW3 centre.

Once consisting of “lumps of salty meat” and “pickled bits”, Jewish food had been transformed, he said, into contemporary dishes that now taste like “you…are showing your mouth a good time”.

Zest is “a Jewish restaurant serving really good food. That is something I will have to get used to