Times writer Giles Coren paid a visit to Golders Green dairy restaurant Isola Bella and came out lauding its “wonderful” sizzling tuna — “one of the most extraordinary main courses I have ever had”.

Not since Michael Winner raved over salt beef sandwiches in Reubens has a kosher restaurant dish earned such national acclaim.

Mr Coren also wrote of seeing his eating companion, JC columnist Rabbi Naftali Brawer, say a brachah before taking a bite — “something I have not seen since the death of my great-grandpa Harry, the first Coren, who was big on that sort of thing”.

I wonder what he would make of pigfish.