The storm called to mind the devastating Labour Day hurricane of 1935 — which decimated the overseas railroad that connected the Keys at the time. In the 18 months since, a marathon rebuilding effort has been underway, although as we drove out of Miami, signs still greeted us advertising compensation for hurricane victims.
Nevertheless, it was clear from the traffic that tourists aren’t staying away; we were there over spring break and almost everywhere was full (this was true of Miami also, where only the kosher restaurants my carnivorous husband directed us to were free of tourists).
Things were slow last year, our taxi driver in Key West explained, following media coverage that he derided as sensationalist, but the hotels, bars, and restaurants are certainly bustling now.
With the sun finally making an appearance, our initial entrance onto the 113-mile Overseas Highway gave little clue of what had unfolded — although the Upper Keys were spared the worst of the damage.
Our first stop was Islamorada, a stunning stretch of coastline in the Middle Keys, about an hour and a half out of Miami by car; you need wheels for this area unless you plan on eating all meals at your chosen hotel as very little is walkable.
Islamorada was badly affected by Irma and still now parts of our beachfront hotel — the aptly-named Postcard Inn — were out of action, and a smattering of construction work was taking place.
But the beach itself was as lovely as promised; sea so clear that we could see down to the bottom as we kayaked around, palm trees rustling in the breeze and textbook sunrises.
Exploring the wider area, it was easy to see just how vulnerable this stretch was to the storm. Even in March the wind rages at night and the restaurants — many of them essentially wooden shacks — seem hardly able to withstand it.
At the excellent Islamorada Fish Company, where we gorged on deliciously fresh Mahi Mahi and watched the sun disappear in a riot of colour, part of the place was closed for the night after gusts sent seawater over the barrier, a not-uncommon occurrence.
There’s little beyond the beach and various marinas here, although we stumbled upon a lovely arts and crafts market one evening selling as many illustrations of fish as you could ever desire, but it’s impossibly photogenic and a perfect place for water sports like paddle boating or fishing.
From that relative calm we travelled another hour and a half down the coast, taking in the extraordinary views along the Seven Mile Bridge, to the more raucous, party island of Key West, once America’s richest city and still today the beating heart of this part of the world.
Home to the southernmost point on the continental US — there’s a cheesy photo opportunity marking the exact spot — it’s unlike anywhere else I’ve been in the States; more akin to a southeast Asian backpacker destination come over all fancy.
Along the main thoroughfare of Duval Street, hotels, dive bars and garish art galleries jostle for space with key lime pie specialists (the authentic stuff is yellow, not green apparently) and tourist boats offering snorkelling or diving expeditions.
The golden-sanded public beach on Fort Zachary Taylor is second to none — take an umbrella and plenty of water, as there’s nowhere to buy either once you’re there — and literary buffs will enjoy the tour of Ernest Hemingway’s beautiful home, where the breathless guide took us through the writer’s multiple wives and near-death experiences, while noting which of his famous novels were written under the Florida sun.
We booked on a sunset cruise with Sunset Sail Key West and were not disappointed; ambling around the Caribbean waters in the When and If, a classic wooden sailboat once owned by Second World War General George Patton was a delightful way to see the erratic landscape from a different vantage point, not to mention providing us an unexpected tête-à-tête with a gathering of dolphins.
At around £60 a person, it’s not cheap, but then again, little in the Keys is.
The hustle and bustle of Key West with cafes and restaurants galore in walking distance was enormous fun, but in the mood for a relaxed few days of sunbathing, we stayed slightly outside on neighbouring Stock Island, at the Oceans Edge resort.
We had been due to stay in its sister hotel up in Marathon, the Isla Bella Beach resort — set to be the first post-Irma luxury destination to open — but construction wasn’t finished in time.
It was no great shame; Oceans Edge is made up of 100 suites in low-rise villa style buildings, surrounded by white picket fences, all with a sunset view of the harbour. Luxurious without being showy, it’s more like a homey New England inn than a flashy Miami resort, although six swimming pools means there’s no need to battle it out for the prime sunbed.
On site, the Yellowfin Bar and Grill serves up breakfast and fantastic fish options for dinner, while families are welcome with daily activities for kids such as mermaid slime making and poolside film screenings. There’s even a free shuttle to take you the 15 minutes into Key West, meaning you can finally leave your car behind.
All in all, we were sorry to say goodbye, as we sped back up the highway to Miami for a final day in the sun. Happily, this time the weather gods delivered.
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