Here is a luxury riad (a traditional Moroccan house which opens inward to a garden courtyard) in the heart of Marrakech's Medina.
Until ten years ago, owners Mike and Lucie Wood had no hospitality experience but plenty of love for Marrakech and a reason to return.
It is the former home of the jazz singer and war heroine Josephine Baker and at its heart lies that courtyard, a beautiful dipping pool surrounded by archways concealing comfy couches and a small, intimate dining room where you can eat a freshly prepared breakfast at any time.
Each of the seven spacious guest rooms is luxuriously themed around a symbol of Baker's legacy, from the glitz of Paris to the Charleston of the roaring twenties.
Each one is full of little knick-knacks and treasures, but all are beautifully tasteful with queen size beds, 300-count Egyptian cotton bed linen and rainforest showers.
The spirit of lives on everywhere; a collection of theatrical costumes here, a head dress there, figurines in nooks and crannies and when night falls, slides of her in her heyday, project on the courtyard walls. All very atmospheric.
Another surprise for me was the charming roof terrace, a spacious sun trap for lazy afternoons lying on a sun bed catching a bit of breeze and listening to the sounds of Marrakech down below. Up here too is the Riad's own private Hammam, a place of wonderment for me. Who can resist the soapy attraction of a cleansing Moroccan traditional massage, an exfoliation that left my skin baby soft for days?
For me, there is nothing finer when visiting Marrakech than staying riad-style in the Medina. It's a unique opportunity to experience local life up close but at the same time, behind that magical door, your creature comforts await.
Riad Star, together with Lucie and Mike's other Riad's, Cinammon, Papillon and Dar Habbib offers luxury hospitality at a fine price, but best of all, you are treated like family by a truly dedicated team.
Nothing was too much trouble; I had refreshments on tap, the use of a local mobile phone in case I needed it and the help and advice from locals who knew the city like the backs of their hands.
Rates: Rooms at Riad Star cost from £140 per night on a bed and breakfast basis, with a 20% discount offered for online bookings.
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