Basel: If it's good enough for Herzl - The Jewish Chronicle

If a two, or even three centre holiday is not enough, then how about a three nation afternoon? It's one of the intriguing possibilities thrown up by a short break in Basel. On a walking tour of the pretty, compact city on our opening morning, our guide explains that Germany is just a couple of miles away (a tram takes you there) and France is equally close. Yet Basel's many cultural and culinary attractions - plus a significant Jewish heritage - provide the incentive to stay on Swiss territory.

You can fly direct from London, but I had taken the Eurostar to Paris, then a comfy berth on a train bound for a final destination of Zurich.

For a few hours more, it's a more civilised and less expensive way of making the trip. You can then get to your hotel on one of the trams that stop outside the central station.

Those staying in Basel receive a free pass (it's the Swiss way) for the super efficient transport system. Though the main sights and shops are within comfortable walking distance.

On foot, it is apparent that Basel loves a museum - there are close to 40 of them in a city with a 200,000 population, from the seriously arty to the fun and quirky, such as a toy museum housing a collection of 4,000 Teddy bears. Or the museum showcasing the endearingly eccentric work of the late Swiss artist, Jean Tinguely, whose mechanical sculptures were made with items salvaged from garbage. If you don't have time to do the museum, you can enjoy the fountain in his name with some typically wacky pieces, which looks magical in winter with a frosting of ice.

Getting there

Train: Rares from London to Basel start from £116 (standard class return). You can also book a return train journey from Basel to Zurich for £46. www.voyages-sncf.com
Stay: Novotel Basel City, room rates from 160 CHF. www.novotel.com
More info: www.basel.com

The Jewish museum was closed on the days of our visit but such is the Jewish history of the area that there is a specialist tour (280 CHF, around £200, for a group of up to 20). Jewish traders came to Basel in the early Middle Ages and the first Jewish community dates back to the early 13th century. It is also linked indelibly to the founder of political Zionism,Theodor Herzl, who held the first Zionist Congress at the Stadt-Casino in August 1897. "In Basel I have founded the Jewish state," Herzl wrote in his diary.

As well as a street named after him, he is remembered in the city's most glitzy hotel, Les Trois Rois (The Three Kings), with its elegant dining areas and splendid views of the Rhine.

A famous photo depicts Herzl sitting on the hotel balcony against the backdrop of the old Rhine bridge. The room he stayed in still bears his name and includes a copper engraving of Herzl.

Hotel staff say it is popular with Jewish tourists and should you want the ultimate Herzl experience, you can book the room from 375 CHF (£267) per night.

Slightly off the main drag, I discover some unspoilt squares whilst trying to find the synagogue - hindsight is a wonderful thing and I latterly learn that it is served by its own, named, bus stop on the 34 route.

Taking a break from his Shabbat preparations, long-serving shammas Zvi Goldstein (once of Stoke Newington) gives me an impromptu tour of the large and rather lovely building, including a kosher restaurant, which serves a community of 2,000.

The love of a Basel woman brought Zvi to Switzerland and he takes paternal pride in his adopted synagogue, which he says welcomes tourists to services, although in these security conscious days, the shul prefers that visitors make contact in advance. With so much to see, it's easy to work up an appetite and there are enviable eating options, from the chintzy tea rooms offering chocolate treats to fine dining, reflecting the influences of the German speaking side of the country. Sitting in the courtyard of the Lowenzorn restaurant on a balmy summer's evening, every inclination is to linger beyond the final course. Its historic rooms date back to the 16th century and the exterior is fringed by some picture postcard architecture. For variety, we sample some lighter fare at a restaurant with a rooftop terrace the following lunchtime, washed down with a glass or two of the excellent Swiss wine.

On our final morning, I head for the market whose centrepiece is the distinctive town hall, housing some interesting sculpture and paintings.

The great thing about travelling by train is that I can stock up on vino without fear of breakage. It's too hot to risk chocolate but that still leaves the cheese. Down to my last 10 Swiss francs, I throw myself on the mercy of a fromage stallholder. Not only does he offer me a comprehensive tasting, with explanations, he goes on to prepare my take home package of four mountain cheeses of vintages from four months to two years. The bill should way exceed 10 CHF but he waives the extra charge, saying: "It's my present to you."

In Basel, you really can say cheese and smile.

Getting there

Train: Rares from London to Basel start from £116 (standard class return). You can also book a return train journey from Basel to Zurich for £46. www.voyages-sncf.com
Stay: Novotel Basel City, room rates from 160 CHF. www.novotel.com
More info: www.basel.com