I first became aware of Nigella Lawson some time in the 1980s: she was a columnist for the Evening Standard, and if you had a job in London in those days you had to read the paper, whether you liked it or not. At the time, the term Nepo Baby had not been coined, but it might have been made for her: the daughter of the Chancellor of the Exchequer, Nigel Lawson, of whom I had a very dim view, for various reasons; so I was at first suspicious. The name, for one thing: it bespoke an overbearing parental ego, for a start. I also could not help noticing the byline photo: and there was no getting away from the fact that she was rather good-looking; considerably more so than her father. But the tube journeys were long and boring, so one read the Standard, and its columnists: and against the odds, and despite my misgivings, I found her columns sane, intelligent, and well-written; and often politically at odds with the line of the government. I was, in short, impressed.
Since then, of course, we have all become very familiar with her indeed; it can be safely said of her that she needs no introduction. But she does merit an explanation: for there are few celebrities who have managed to curate their image so well; few, if any, have achieved such prominence over such a long period of time without getting on anyone’s nerves. No one, it seems, has a bad word to say about her: I certainly don’t. We have followed her career for decades, and have enjoyed pretty much every moment; unless she was having a bad time of it, and she did, when her first husband, John Diamond, beloved by all who knew him, died far too young, of cancer; then there was her marriage to Charles Saatchi, and when photos emerged of it looking very much like he was committing violence upon her, a nation rose in outraged sympathy.
Of course, everyone wanted to be married to her: she has managed to personify a kind of ideal woman: wife, and mother, and chef, and sexpot, yet without anyone getting upset about this; and with the additional element of her Jewishness; but as Jewish mothers go, she is very easy-going. If that stereotype is somewhat overbearing, she defies that stereotype. She has traded on her looks, certainly; but with a knowingness that manages to disarm all criticism. People get the feeling that she would be nice to meet in person; and, having done so myself, I can vouch for the fact that she is as delightful as you would hope or wish.
People get the feeling that she would be nice to meet in person; and, having done so myself, I can vouch for the fact that she is as delightful as you would hope or wish
So it was perhaps inevitable that someone would write a musical about her; I’m actually surprised it has taken so long. So now we have, starting in June, at the Gatehouse in Highgate, what is described by its author, Emily Rose Simons, as “a totally unauthorised love letter” to her. It’s called How to Make a Mess, in which an imaginary Nigella is conjured up by a woman suffering bereavement, and in need of solace and guidance. Who else to turn to but Nigella?
It sounds rather promising. Nigella, after all, had the chutzpah to come up with a cookbook called How to Eat; something we think we all know how to do; unless we don’t. The press release says: “How To Make a Mess offers a joyful celebration of feeding yourself, through the exploration of
recipes and the stories that they hold. The show navigates grief, the power of choosing what we
let into our lives, and what we leave behind.” I have not seen the show, so cannot give a verdict; but it sounds like it will be just the ticket, so to speak, playing on the idea of Nigella that we all have in our heads.
Food writer and television personality Nigella LawsonAlamy Stock PhotoIt could, of course, turn out to be an act of grievous lèse-majesté, but my hunch is that it won’t be. For Nigella has never, unless I missed it, taken herself too seriously: she plays with her image with the artistry and inner cunning of a Warhol. It is no stretch to imagine her as a kind of queen; and indeed, she has allowed herself to be called a domestic goddess, ageless and worthy of reverence. Do you remember Gillian McKeith, the bogus doctor who urged us all to examine our stools, and purge ourselves of unhealthy foods? She was a noisy presence for a while, until someone pointed out that Nigella was not only the same age as her, but also looked a lot healthier, and her recipes didn’t even pay lip-service to the idea of diets and austere dinners.
Nigella – and of course, it goes without saying she only needs the forename, as if all memory of her famous and powerful father could be dispensed with – is popular because she celebrates life; this is why we love her; and in a society where women can get told off for just about any reason that prudes and snobs can come up with, her enduring success is almost a miracle, especially when you consider the increasingly febrile nature of contemporary fame. She is quietly astonishing, in her way, both exotic and familiar at the same time; someone, you could say, it is worthy to make a song and dance about.
How to Make a Mess: A Totally Unauthorised Love Letter to Nigella Lawson is at Upstairs at the Gatehouse from June 4 until June 28
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