Cavalieri Waldorf Astoria

The Cavalieri sits on the Monte Mario, the highest hill in Rome, and is about 20 minutes from St Peter's.

As I arrive, I'm slightly disappointed by the 1960s boxy exterior, but once inside, the opulence of the interiors and the art collection in the lobby, impress. From my balcony on the seventh floor, I have a magnificent view of the eternal city.

Just below me is the 25m outdoor pool, a cool haven to soak away the travails of the day. My room is spacious, divided into sleeping and living areas and the bathroom is clad in Travertine marble. I'm slightly disappointed to have two single beds rather than one huge double, but it's so quiet here that I'm soon drifting off into a deep sleep.

That's after I've visited the hotel's Grand Spa which has a spectacular Turkish bath at its centre and a fabulous Roman-style relaxation lounge where you can recline like an emperor on cushioned divans. For exercise, there are four pools, tennis courts and a fitness circuit in the spacious grounds.

At the top of the hotel is one of the best restaurants in Rome, if not in Italy - the three-Michelin starred La Pergola is the only one in the city to get this number of stars. If that's too swanky, then there's more relaxed dining at L'Uliveto, which overlooks the pool. It features Mediterranean and international dishes, with a healthy nod towards Italian cuisine.

You do feel slightly out of town here but the advantage is that it's a welcome oasis of calm after braving the tourist sights during the day. It's not cheap but the rates are on par with other luxury hotels in Rome. Enjoy the pool, relax in the grounds and, best of all, enjoy the glorious view.

Rates: From Euro 299 for a deluxe room with breakfast www.romecavalieri.com