The BBC may have lost the Great British Bake-Off but it still has the spin-off patisserie contest, Crème de la Crème.

One of the competitors in the new series is Stefan Rose (above centre), grandson of the queen of Jewish cooking, Evelyn Rose.

Last week’s test for his team included making a croque-en-bouche — a mountain of profiteroles. That is not a dish with which Mr Rose is greatly familiar, having last seen an example at Evelyn and her husband Myer’s golden wedding. “That was the only time I’d eaten one,” he said.

So he left French team-mate, Maxime Michelot, to take charge of the towering challenge.

But the dessert does have some family pedigree. His aunt, cookery writer Judi Rose, recalled, “My mother had a croque-en-bouche as the centrepiece for my brother Alan [Stefan’s father]’s barmitzvah.”