I’ve been to Manchester. More specifically, Bury and to the kitchens of one of my favourite kosher caterers, Celia Clyne.
Braving the Pendolino (aka the nausea express) Virgin’s high speed train, also testing out the city’s tram system on my journey to Clyne’s neck of the woods.
As well as a cosy catch up, she wanted me to meet her new head chef — Scott Gavin. He’s top notch, with a passion for what he does and a long CV in the world of food — most recently at Hale country club. Gavin joined the business just under a year ago.
I was treated to a series of beautiful and delicious fusion dishes. A table of Asian-influenced hors d’oeuvres on various boards and platters which included a mini glass of a sweet, lager and lime shandy with a sesame-studded, sticky rib; a series of unusual sushi rolls including duck with plum sauce and spiced duck on fried sushi (wow) plus cured salmon on a sliver of purple potato and a Thai-spiced duck risotto ball in a creamy, coconut-milk based sauce.
More Thai flavourings and jewel-like colours followed in the main course. Hot and sour coconut chicken was fresh and clean as well as beautiful on the eye. A bowl of glossy, turmeric-yellow sauce and perfectly cooked chicken under scattering of micro-herbs, bright green tenderstem broccoli and shards of red chilli and spring onion.
Dessert was equally aesthetically pleasing. A deconstructed peach melba in a champagne coupe. Poached peach, nuggets of crunchy biscuit and snow white pebbles of melting meringue. On the side, a mini glass sauce boat of smooth raspberry sauce. Best of all, was the old-fashioned, utilitarian-looking wooden lidded box on which it sat. Once I’d demolished the pud, I could lift the lid to find a tiny brownie, and two squares of one of my favourite treats — pâtes des fruits, which is like a fruit jelly.
Scott has a thing for wooden boxes, and loves the surprise element of lifting the lid. Expect to find plenty of them at Celia Clyne’s future functions.
They sent me home with a package of delicious parev chocolate fridge cake which the JC office team demolished the next day.
Funny that I sniff at the prospect of travelling to Hoxton or (God forbid) south of the river for a review, but thought nothing of haring up north. Says a lot for Clyne and Gavin's food. Totally worth the cross-country journey.
