If you read this column with any regularity, you have probably noticed that most of the wines recommended here come from national chains. Does this mean that I like those wines better than others? Not for a second.
This is great for entertaining. If you leave off the anchovies it is perfect for your vegetarian guests. It is easy to prepare and wonderfully strong in flavour. You can also make individual tartlets by cutting the puff pastry into squares, rounds or rectangles. To ensure the pastry stays crisp, bake the tart directly on an oven tray rather than in a tart dish.
Ashkenazi food is founded on chopped liver, chicken soup and cholent. But with shechita under attack again, could that be about to change? The traditional form of kosher slaughter is already banned in Sweden and Denmark and is under threat in the Netherlands. Poland has now jumped on the bandwagon.
140g plain flour
¼ tsp baking powder
¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda
Pinch of salt
5 heaped tbsp ground almonds or walnuts
2 organic free-range eggs
225g fairtrade light brown muscovado sugar
180ml light olive oil
180ml orange juice (equivalent to about 1½ oranges)
Zest of 1½ oranges
Juice of ½ lemon
1 tsp vanilla extract
300g carrots, peeled and finely grated
This is perfect for Chanucah tea as it captures the symbolic use of oil as an ingredient as well as being an ideal recipe for an afternoon snack. Olive oil makes dense, moist cakes and goes well with fruity flavours.
Preparation: 25 minutes
Cooking: 1 hour
60ml olive oil
225g caster sugar
5 eggs, separated
1 tbsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
The combination of earthy beetroot, salty feta and sweet dressing in this recipe makes a cleansing salad for your Chanucah table. The combination of purple, golden and candy-striped beetroot adds a wonderful colour contrast. If you cannot get hold of multi-coloured beetroots, the standard beetroot can be used to make a deeply purple salad. Chanucah’s golden olive oil is used in the dressing.
It seems strange to put “baked” and “doughnuts” in the same sentence but believe me, they are good. If you haven’t got time to make the custard filling, they are equally delicious unfilled; or try ready-made alternatives like strawberry jam, chocolate spread or lemon curd.”
When I was a child we sometimes had chicken for our Chanucah dinner. But mostly it was my mother’s pot roast brisket, which I have already pointed out in these pages was the greatest brisket cooked anywhere since the end of the Babylonian exile. Sadly, we stuck with cookies and pastries instead of doughnuts – not that anyone ever had room for many of them.
20 chicken wings
100ml olive oil
60ml white balsamic vinegar
Large bunch flat leaf parsley, chopped
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
2 tbsp honey
2 tbsp mustard
White pepper and rock salt
1 litre vegetable oil, for frying
Wash and pat the wings dry and put in a mixing bowl.
Blend the oil, balsamic, lemon juice, honey and mustard to a sauce-like consistency.
Class: Mastering Macaroons at Atelier des Chefs in the City of London.
Expectation: To make perfect macaroons.
On Offer: Two hours making four selected flavours of macaroons. I chose peanut butter with raspberry, chilli-spiced tonka bean with white chocolate, lime and fresh ginger butter cream, and salted butter caramel.
By the time you read this, trophies will have been presented to the winners of the second annual What Food What Wine (WFWW) competition (www.whatfoodwhatwine.com). The awards were announced in the summer, but there’s a lag before the recipients gather to get their gongs.
Highlight of the month: a BBC4 broadcast called Chateau Chunder: When Australian Wine Ruled the World. It told the story of how the Aussies conquered the UK market. If you missed it, I urge you to find it on catch-up.
I love this unadulterated – just endives cooked in buttery juices and a scant crumbling of sage. However, sometimes I do want something a bit more, so I add Marsala and cream as well. It depends on my mood.
You could also substitute endive with fennel, replacing the Marsala with white wine or something aniseedy, and the sage with dill.