Africa

Africa: Safari hunt

Sharron Livingston — Fri, 29 Mar 2013 11:47:26 +0000

There is no more spectacular image than a parade of elephants on a mission to find a watering hole within a seemingly infinite landscape. Almost as impressive is the sight of giraffes around acacia trees reaching for the highest, freshest twigs and leaves to snack on.

It is the prospect of these kinds of moments that draw first-timers to safari holidays, while experienced hands know that nothing is more exciting than getting up close to the "big five" beasts - lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant and rhino.

Places such as southern Kenya and northern Tanzania provide the perfect backdrop, and although not all safari destinations are home to all the big five, each area has its own wonders. For example, there are no rhinos in the Luangwa Valley in Zambia, but no matter because the walking safaris there are said to be the best on offer.

Tanzania

Probably the most famous safari area is the Serengeti in Tanzania. The name means "endless space" and the scale of it is truly breathtaking. During the migration season, massive wildebeest herds pound across the savannah. Meanwhile, at the Ngorongor Crater, big game assemble in spectacular numbers. Though traditionally it has been the northern circuit that is most popular among visitors, the Selous Game Reserve - dubbed the southern circuit - is gaining ground. It has the Ruaha National Park and offers a varied terrain with dense bush which supports a wider variety of wildlife. Boat trips on the Rufiji River are particularly enjoyable. Expect to see plenty of lions, elephants, and buffalo.

Namibia

Get there in the dry season and you won't have to go too far into the Etosha Pan to see all kinds of big-game animals gathering at waterholes. The experience is less safari by truck and more stakeouts in the park, but patience will be rewarded with sightings of elephants, black rhinos, lions, herds of zebras and even flamingos (more commonly spotted in the rainy season).

Botswana

A river runs through the Kalahari - the Okavango River. In its futile attempt to reach the sea it splits the land into islands and waterways and the animals love the lush growth it produces, even in the dry season. Next door is the Chobe National Park which offers the same amazing variety of wildlife. You won't have to be eagle-eyed to spot herds of elephants and buffalo as well as wild dogs and even some lesser-seen wetland birds such as Pel's fishing owl.

Kruger National Park, another very well-known safari destination, still has impressive populations of all the big five and lots more besides. The area has a sensational infrastructure which caters to tourists on a budget, and money-no-object travellers, allowing both the opportunity to savour the safari experience. The most exclusive reserves are Sabi Sands, Timbavati and Manyeleti. Kruger is one of the largest safari areas and you will get to see white rhinos, lions, cheeky cheetahs who think they own the road, hippos, crocodiles and wild dogs.

Rwanda/Uganda

Remember the film Gorillas in the Mist, starring Sigourney Weaver as naturalist Dian Fossey. This is gorilla country and two-thirds of the world's population live in misty mountain forests between Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda. You may not be able to get as up close as she did, but chances are the encounters you do have will be awesome.

Morocco: A land of charmers

Jenni Frazer — Thu, 01 Mar 2012 11:54:08 +0000

If ever there were proof that you can't always believe what you read in the travel guides, it's Conde Nast Traveller's assertion that "there are 12 times as many cows in Morocco as humans".

Disappointingly, I have to report that the cow population of Morocco does not seem to reside in Marrakech. Despite an assiduous search over four days, we failed to spot any more than one miserable, scrawny beast, lurking in a field in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. Sheep, goats and donkeys aplenty; snakes, stoned to the eyeballs; and even a whole cageful of tiny tortoises, were among the wildlife on offer. But only one cow.

No matter. Even Conde Nast, I don't suppose, goes to Marrakech for the cattle quotient.

Instead, Marrakech runs the gamut from quasi-European sophistication, complete with winter sun, to enjoyably ethnic mystic East. The aforementioned snakes in a trance are the star players, together with their charmers, in the city's Djmaa el-Fnaa central square, a vast sprawling plaza of beggars, hucksters, fortune tellers and shamans, swirling with noise and colour.

Depending on your age and appetite, Djmaa el-Fnaa is an endless source of photographic delight, heaving with orange-seller stalls in the morning and dark with barbecue smoke as the dusk settles, rich with nameless food odours.

Or it is the main gateway to the city's famed souks, or central market, the place in which, apparently, you can buy absolutely anything you can think of - and more besides.

Forget shopping as you understand it in the UK. If you've spent any time in Israel you are off to a flying start. (And your hidden advantage, in Marrakech, is that Israelis can only visit the country as part of a group tour, so you're unlikely to encounter random Israelis beating you to the count in the bargaining stakes.) Nothing is the price you first hear. Think of the souk as the very opposite of Ronseal. Instead, your mission is to figure out a realistic price for something you have set your little heart on - and always remember that, as with the principle of wholesale, more will cost you less.

You may not want six plates or four tagines, but you will almost certainly have friends at home who will be happy to have a proper Moroccan souvenir.

So, what to buy? Without doubt the cheapest and most accessible items in the souk are the spices. Just drift past a spice stall, heavy hessian sacks full to the brim with myriad reds, yellows, greens and browns, and breath in the scent of the east.

Or go inside one of the stores and be enchanted by the tiniest of sets of scales, fit for a doll's house but actually for weighing out minuscule amounts of saffron strands, perhaps the most expensive and desirable of all the spices.

Don't leave Marrakech without the ubiquitous argan oil. It comes from a tree which they say grows only in Morocco and you can buy it for cooking or for your face and body. The most popular use of the latter, by the way, is for putting on the hair as a treatment, once a week. It's highly prized in this usage and has many fans in the UK. You can buy argan oil in Britain but it is fearfully expensive, so take advantage of the local produce.

You might also be tempted by the glorious colours of the scarves and textiles. Just be aware that - unlike in Istanbul's Grand Bazaar, where every stallholder is a human calculator who will accept every currency and credit card going - the Marrakechis only take Moroccan dirhams. On the new side of the city, of course, the Western shops do take credit cards. But why would you want to go to a Western shop here?

Everywhere you turn in Marrakech, there are well-dressed businessmen walking, cycling, or zipping along on puk-puk motor cycles, weaving dangerously in and out of the traffic. And over their smart Western suits, you are just as likely to see them wearing the national dress - long djellabahs with pointy hoods, worn by everyone from the King downwards. It is, indeed, a nation of hoodies, but a relatively well-behaved one, knocking back glass after glass of mint tea rather than copious amounts of alcohol.

There is alcohol, of course, and none in more classy a joint than the grandest of hotels, La Mamounia, Churchill's choice whenever he was in Morocco. Gorgeously restored recently, La Mamounia reeks of money; in one of its many bars, designed to pander to your inner leopardskin, even the armchairs have epaulettes, and the drinks menu is eye-wateringly expensive. But you should go, just once, just for the experience.

For another view of Marrakech that is diametrically opposite, it's not hard to gain an invitation from the famously hospitable Moroccan Berbers - some of whom say they were descended from the Jews. In the village of Ait-Ourir, just outside the city, nestling at the foot of the Atlas Mountains, lives Fatema Souah and her husband. It's fair to say they don't have much in the way of material goods: water is brought by donkey cart, and electricity is intermittent. But Mrs Souah and her family could not be more welcoming and the sumptuous spread she served up for lunch for a group of Western strangers - complete with vegetable tagine for the non-meat-eaters among us - was a highlight of my trip.

The Berber language, Amazigh, is properly impenetrable.

But even if you don't speak that or Arabic, just a smattering of school French will get you a long way.

Not with the cows, though.

The Seychelles: nature's Eden project

Sharron Livingston — Thu, 08 Dec 2011 11:46:10 +0000

Nothing unearths that feeling of being at one with the world more than a beautiful view, especially if that view has Jurassic origins. The tropical Seychelles archipelago has evolved over the millennia into one with dramatic landscapes with glorious, vibrant hues, a heady mix that, at least for me, arouses a feeling of overwhelming smallness and awe.

Though there are 115 islands, only a few are inhabited and a recent colonial history involving the British and French has left the now independent Seychelles with a charming Creole culture that embraces both French and English as official languages.

The main islands for holidaymakers (especially honeymooners) are Praslin, La Digue - whose beaches are probably the most photographed in the world - and Mahe, the largest of the trio and home to its capital Victoria, its international airport and a replica of Big Ben.

At my base, the brand new Raffles waterfront spa resort on Praslin island, I heard tales of hidden treasures around these parts and the construction team did keep an eye out while building their 86 villas and extensive spa area, but found nothing.

Digging a little deeper it turns out that notorious French pirate Olivier le Vasseur buried his treasure in the Seychelles in the 1700s when piracy was rife and punishable by death. He was executed by gallows but took the secret of the treasure's whereabouts to his grave.

But no matter, for the Seychelles, whose scattered emerald green islands trimmed with white sands that float in the vastness of the azure waters of the Indian ocean, has its own gems.

Praslin is only place on earth to see the humorously saucy coco de mer palm. The coco de mer nuts are protected for posterity and there is a lot of interest in them both for their rarity and the way they look - the female version is shaped as a woman's pelvis and is the reason that Praslin was once thought to be the Garden of Eden.

I went to the UNESCO Heritage site of the eerie pre-historic palm forest Vallee de Mai (15 euros entry) and where they seem to grow in abundance. They take nine years to come to fruition and when they fall the hard-shelled fruits are collected by licensed traders. The male version of this fruit, which spreads the seeds, is yet more suggestive, but I'll leave it at that.

The park is also the habitat of the elusive black parrot who unfortunately stayed hidden or was well camouflaged within the dark shadows of the tall palms (some grow to 30m high) with fronds that expand to 6m wide and 14m long creating a veritable canopy. A fleet of inquisitive bulbuls, (thrush-like birds found in many woody habitats) however, were bold enough to swoop in and perch nearby in excited readiness to peck the offerings from our hands.

The Seychelles may be the world's most ancient oceanic islands yet tourism is only around 70 years old. So, the beaches are still pristine and poets and dreamers would find inspiration on the milky white sands of Grande Anse or under the shade of the coconut palms at the much-acclaimed Anse Lazio beach. The latter was the scene of two horrific shark attacks during August. Initially, there was a swimming ban and exclusion nets have been installed. There have been no more sightings and the ban has been lifted.

So, both are now safe to swim in, with soft sand underfoot in the shallow waters and with 30m of visibility is superb for snorkelling and diving among the corals and colourful fish. But the beach that captured my heart was Anse Source d'Argent on the nearby island La Digue. Fifty euros got me there and back by ferry. Once on this tiny island of barely 2,000 inhabitants, what I found was a white sash of silky sand bedecked with huge grey-black with-a- hint-of-pink granite boulders. These have been weathered into fascinating shapes and sizes and their random groupings often create perfect privacy for couples whose only desire is to be in love. Is it any wonder that part of the film Emmanuelle was shot here.

Locals still occasionally get around by ox and cart and there are ox-taxi tours for tourists. But the best way is either on foot, and better still, by bicycle. There are several bike rental shops and exploring on two wheels means being able to take in all the nooks and crannies along the road to the beach and catching a glimpse of the odd cottage industry. In one nook there was a makeshift wooden shack selling coconut drinks and in another cranny, in the shade of a Tanamaka tree was a man making sun-hats from palm leaves. They were so beautiful I handed over 100 rupees (£5) for his handiwork.

The Seychelles are known for their large turtles (there's even a community at Raffles resort) and I couldn't help but ogle. A couple of them made their way slowly to the edge of the water and poked their heads and loved being stroked just beneath their chins.

It is so easy to feel relaxed on these islands. There are no busy town centres, just a cluster of shops here and there, and there is no night life to speak of but who cares when the day life is so captivating.

Tanzania: combining safari and tropical beaches.

Judith Baker — Thu, 05 May 2011 11:57:26 +0100

Serengeti, and Zanzibar in the east African country of Tanzania conjure images of explorers, traders and old civilizations. These days Tanzania is a destination for a different kind of explorer - those looking for a different holiday experience. With its good year-round climate and the opening of luxury lodges, a two centre visit can combine sun and safari: a few days of lion and elephant spotting in the Serengeti can be followed by relaxation on the palm-fringed beaches of Zanzibar.

Serengeti

The Bilila Lodge Kempinski, nestling in the heart of the untamed Savannah, is a new luxury lodge in the Seronera area.

The region is mainly wide open grassy plains and rocks, patched together within a network of rivers that ensure year-round water supplies that keep this region incredibly rich in wildlife throughout the year.

Guests have a viewing deck with a telescope and families of elephants turn up at the watering hole just steps from the hotel.

The on-site spa offers a welcome jet-lag massage after the long trip, or an après-game drive spot of relaxation before enjoying cocktails overlooking the savannah. Other highlights are a Champagne breakfast in the bush as the sun rises and an African barbeque in the Boma, a round room built in the style of a Maasai house.

The Maasai people have grazed their cattle on the vast grassy plains here for millennia. These tall, handsome people with their red blankets and huge spears act as hotel guards.

The Serengeti wildlife reserves was created to preserve the path of the world's largest migration circuit, covers nearly 15,000 square kilometres.

The name Serengeti comes from the Maasai word for 'endless plains', and these rolling distances of short grass plains provide an exceptional landscape for wildlife viewing.

This land is famous for its concentrations of wildlife such as lions, elephants, giraffes, zebras. Hippos can be spotted bathing in their muddy pools. Most visitors see them on a jeep, but a balloon ride over the Serengeti proved the perfect way to get a bird's eye view of the wildlife below.

The Great Migration takes place here. A staggering 1.5 million wildebeest, 200,000 zebras and 350,000 gazelles run 1,200 miles in an annual race to find enough water and green grass for their survival.

Zanzibar

The magical archipelago comprises around 50 islands in the Indian Ocean. The major inhabited islands are Unguja (Zanzibar) Pemba and Tumbatu.

Zanzibar's main town, Stonetown, is a UNESCO world heritage site. The ancient maze of narrow streets is a romantic hotchpotch of historic old stone buildings built close for cool respite from the tropical island sun; shaded by elegantly carved balconies, loggias and verandas that cling precipitously overhead.

The coastline proffers mile upon mile of blue sea and white sand, with waters loved by divers.

Hand-sewn sails of traditional wooden fishing dhows sail those seas and ocean explorers can find themselves alongside thriving coral reefs, beautiful tropical fish, turtles and dolphins.

The Zamani Kempinski is the newest of the large five-star resorts on Zanzibar. Located on the East Coast about 45 minutes from Stonetown, the hotel has seven private villas, each with a private 20 metre infinity pool.

Three restaurants, a jetty bar and beach club grill and bar offer freshly caught fish such as mahi mahi, Dorado and snapper and some excellent vegetarian dishes made from locally grown produce.

Nearby, Prison Island, a former prison for slaves and a quarantine station is home to giant tortoises that were imported from the Seychelles in the late 19th century.

Stonetown gives a glimpse of the essence of Zanzibar, the sights, sounds and smells of the market, harbour and a sense of crumbling glory.

A day trip allows time to see the Sultan's Palaces, museums and experience the sights and sounds of this idiosyncratic centre. Some of the fine buildings, such as the House of Wonders and the Old Fort, have been restored to create areas for coffee and relaxation.

The best way to explore Stonetown is to meander the streets, window shopping and absorbing the atmosphere and admiring elaborately carved doors with delicately executed patterns of lotus flowers, fish and vines or dates.

Head for the balcony bar at Africa House, the former English Club in colonial times, which is the place to be seen for sundowners.

As the sun sets, a crowd gathers along the harbour front and in Forodhani Gardens, smoke rises from barbecues at the assorted food stalls and the curio markets assembling by gaslight.

Alternatively, a sunset dhow cruise is the perfect romantic end to the day.

How I tried to get the most out of Africa

Sharron Livingston — Thu, 20 Jan 2011 10:45:21 +0000

'I'm afraid I can't land the plane," announced the pilot. "Because there are animals on the runway."

We had left Nairobi's Wilson airport 45 minutes earlier on a 13-seat Safari Link plane but no one minded the short delay circling the skies before touchdown at Kenya's Masai Mara because we were enjoying the floor show below.

The runway was a strip of mown field and we had a bird's eye view of the loitering zebras and giraffes who were being shooed away.

Landing was smooth and we were met by the drivers of the waiting trucks from our hosts from a tour company called &Beyond.

They plied us with champagne and nibbles before whisking us away on a 20-minute drive passing grazing impalas and curious buffalos to Kichwa Tembo lodge in the northwestern region of the Masai Mara National Reserve. The camp, hidden in foliage, looked so Out of Africa with its vintage furnishings and colonial setting that I expected to see Meryl Streep sipping iced-tea with Robert Redford. For those tickled by holidaying in film locations, the neighbouring Bateleur Camp is the location where the final scene was shot.

The manager, Stanley, and his team fussed over his new arrivals with more nibbles and drinks.

"Livingston" he delighted in calling me, "your butler is Joseph and he will take you to your home."

Joseph, a long narrow slip of a man wearing the red Masai blanket accessorised with beads and a spear, walked quickly, unhindred by the weight of my luggage, along the twisty path through the forest to my "tent".

I use the word with a wry smile, because, yes, the ceiling and the front were made of fabric and netting, but it had polished wood floors, walls of wood logs and the en-suite shower with a pizza sized shower power-head, was made of stone.

At night I would slip into a king size four poster bed pre-warmed by a fluffy hot water bottle and wake to a view through the netting over the Masai Mara and see gazelles and baboons frolicking on the horizon. In the afternoons I could have a quiet moment and sip tea on the terrace, invite a masseuse, or lounge by the pool.

But I was keen to explore and eagerly joined the early morning and late afternoon safari (which means journey in the Kiswahili language of East Africa) over the next few days.

"Jambo" was the Masai greeting that I woke up to every morning at 6.30am with a delivery of a cuppa and chocolate biscuits to ease me into the day. And each morning a pair of resident warthogs shuffled around a few yards away searching for morsels, while dinkey white-faced capuchin monkeys swung in the trees canopy above.

By 6.35am Benson, our safari guide, had ignited the engine of the open-sided truck into life and the search was on through the Masai Mara to indulge our inner Richard Attenbrough.

The area is named after the Masai people and their description of the area "Mara", which means "spotted". It refers to the circular acacia tree-tops and cloud shadows that mark the area when seen from above.

Benson would start by asking: "What animal would you like to see today?" We would take our pick from the Big Five: lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard and rhinoceros. The Masai Mara, or maybe it was Benson's tracking skills, did not let us down.

We spotted leopards, the odd rhino, gazelles, wildebeest, lazy lions, buffallos, elephants and impalas in droves.

Baboons would oversee the plains from tree tops while caravans of elephants cowered over their infants as they walked with a mission to the next watering hole. A handful of crocodiles were almost motionless as they lazed in the warm river water.

But the highlights were those precious moments when we stumbled upon nature at its most intimate.

One day we "cooed" and "aahed" as a couple of canoodling giraffes entwined necks in the shade of an umbrella acacia tree. A dazzle of zebras loitered nearby and a lonesome wildebeest sauntered past, seemingly oblivious to the amour on display. For us though, it was a compelling love story.

Incidentally, giraffes spend a lot of time around the acacia trees because they feed on their leaves and twigs. And while they graze, chew and burp, the small oxpecker birds pick at the irritating insects in their fur. This inter-species coalition is a very comical scene.

On another day, though, we narrowly missed a kill, but watched as a lion devoured his antelope, noting the rise and fall of the horns through the grass with each pull and tear. Meanwhile , dozens of vultures hovered above till the lion moved on before swooping in to finish whatever meat was left.

The most thrilling moment was a lively fight between two bull elephants, made all the more dramatic by the dimmed light of the late evening sun. They locked tusks, shoved and pushed each other with ferocity while the earth filled the air with a powdery brown haze with each pounding.

"They are fighting over a female," said Benson blandly. The affray ended when the light faded with the sunset and the pair waddled off slowly and worse for wear into the darkening
distance.

Sometimes, a safari would end with a picnic breakfast under the shade of a large tree. At other times we ate at the lodge or enjoyed a candle lit bbq. Dinner was always a grand flourish of gastronomy served with a gusto of affectation accompanied with a detailed description of ingredients and method of cooking.

Yet six safaris is a lot to digest and there are other community-based activities on offer that reflect the company's conservation ethics.

The Kichwa Tembo football match was great fun. Locals took their seats in nearby trees or on the sidelines while the team (the staff at our lodge) played the final league game. By now we were referring to them as "our team" and we were elated that they won.

Visits to nearby villages were particularly fascinating. We met &Beyond-funded Masai bee-keeping farmers, vegetable gardeners and a chicken farming business run entirely by Masai women. They were proud of their achievement and talked of expansion. When not farming chickens, these women moonlight by making jewellery which they sell to tourists at an alfresco supermarket.

The food produced by the villagers is bought by the lodge to provide freshly grown organic food to their guests who, in turn, come for this all- encompassing experience providing the money to preserve Masai wildlife.

For me, this safari was a indeed a journey that affirmed the beauty of symbiosis in the animal kingdom.

South Africa: After the games, a country that's hard to match

Daralyn Danns — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 11:11:57 +0100

The only sound was the waves crashing on the white sands as we gazed up at the Milky Way and the Southern Cross twinkling in the night sky over Lambert's Bay. It was a magical end to our stay in the Cederberg.

This dramatic setting has turned Muisbosskerm, an unpretentious beach restaurant, south of Lambert's Bay on South Africa's West Coast, into a hot spot for locals and tourists visiting the Cederberg region.

The Cederberg wilderness, a two-hour drive north of Cape Town, is a favourite destination with Capetonians wanting to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.

It is renowned for its stunning rock formations as well as its varieties of vegetation - mainly fynbos (fine bush) - and the Cape Mountain leopard, which is, apparently, very shy so you have to be extremely lucky to see one. What you must see is the rock art, some of it thousands of years old, created by the Bushmen who once inhabited these mountains.

Also on the itinerary was a wine-tasting at the Cederberg Private Cellar, which claims to be South Africa's highest winery where we sampled a Cederberg Sauvignon Blanc and a Cederberg Cabernet Sauvignon. We then headed to Rooibos Ltd for a cup of "healthy", caffeine-free tea which has taken the world by storm. Rich in antioxidants, rooibos - or redbush - was first exported from South Africa in 1904 by Benjamin Ginsberg, a Russian Jewish immigrant.

After 48 hours in the Cederberg, we left Clanwilliam (and the excellent Clanwilliam Lodge) for Franschhoek in the heart of the Cape Winelands.

With its Cape Dutch-style buildings, surrounded by mountains thickly carpeted with lush green vines, it is hard to imagine a more picturesque setting than the Franschhoek valley.

Franschhoek, meaning French Corner, was settled by the French Huguenots who fled to the Cape in the late 1680s to escape religious persecution and began making wine there.

A stroll around the magnificent Grande Provence wine estate with its 300-year history is an idyllic way of soaking up the atmosphere and the history. It also has an interesting gallery showcasing contemporary South African art as well as offering rather good wine-tastings.

As the gourmet capital of South Africa, Franschhoek is bursting with award-winning restaurants including Reuben's, whose Cape Salmon was memorably delicious, and Monneaux Restaurant, at the Franschhoek Country House & Villas which has permitted fish on the menu.

Because of their perennial popularity, it is advisable to book restaurants in advance.

Some of the best shopping in the Cape is to be found in the main street of Franschhoek village which is awash with gorgeous boutiques selling everything from clothes and crafts to housewares, along with antique shops and art galleries. Skip the Huguenot Memorial Museum at the end of the main drag, but do take a look at the impressive Huguenot Monument.

I stayed a couple of nights at the five-star Franschhoek Country House & Villas, but if you prefer not to keep moving around, it is easy to take a day trip from Cape Town, an hour's drive away.

En route to Cape Town, we dropped in to the Waterford Estate in Stellenbosch's lush Blaauwklippen Valley, for one of the famous paired tastings of chocolate and wine.

Seated in gardens against a backdrop of mountains, vineyards and citrus groves, sipping reds while crunching on handmade chocolate creations, is an extremely pleasant way to spend a morning . Heading into Cape Town, nothing quite prepares you for your first sighting of the legendary Table Mountain. Flanked by Devil's Peak and Lion's Head and Signal Hill, it dominates Cape Town, visible from every point.

A cable-car ride to the top is a must for spectacular views of this sprawling, beautiful and very green city, but be prepared to wait until the weather is clear. If you go when the mountain is covered by white cloud - or the "tablecloth", as locals call it - you will see nothing.

The legendary Mount Nelson, one of Cape Town's most elegant and historic hotels, has hosted countless celebrities including Morgan Freeman, Charlize Theron and Agatha Christie.

Set in beautiful gardens, it is an oasis of tranquillity in the middle of the city, and even if you don't stay there, you have to experiencing its legendary afternoon tea.

A vast and delicious feast of every type of teatime treat from dainty smoked salmon sandwiches to home-made gateaux, and endlessly refilled cups of tea, it is stunning value at just 165 rand (£14), and is likely to render you too full to eat dinner.

Instead, linger over a cocktail at the hotel's new Planet Bar, where Cape Town's well-heeled hang out.

From the Mount Nelson, it is easy to explore the old historic centre of the city and the Cape Town Holocaust Centre and Jewish Museum. Also recommended is the Gold of Africa Museum.

Join the locals and go in the evening to learn how to play the drums before enjoying African food (you can make special dietary requests when booking) followed by singing and dancing. For quirky boutiques, cool bars and restaurants head to Long Street and Kloof Street. The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront is home to many of the city's smartest shops and countless eateries.

For pre-dinner drinks, the place to go is the Bascule at the Cape Grace, one of Cape Town's chicest hotels.

By day, take a trip to Cape Point, in the southern section of Table Mountain National Park, an hour away from the city past sandy bays and quaint
villages.

En route, stop at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, home to an amazing array of South African plants, and Boulders Beach in Simonstown, to see its colony of African
penguins.

It used to be thought that Cape Point was where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet, but it is now believed that they actually meet at the southernmost tip of Africa, Cape Agulhas.

But looking down at the craggy cliffs and the ocean from the Cape of Good Hope (within the same section of Table Mountain National Park), you could almost imagine the thrill that the Portuguese navigator Bartolomeu Dias felt when he discovered it in 1488.

On the way back, we took Chapman's Peak Drive, a spectacular nine-kilometer corniche, running along the coastline between Noordhoek and Hout Bay, stopping at Camps Bay, a suburban beach area of Cape Town awash with restaurants, for a much-needed sundowner.

It is 20 years since Nelson Mandela became a free man, and it would be foolish to deny that South Africa has its challenges: visitors can see townships and there is poverty.

But, standing on Robben Island, where Mandela spent 18 years as a prisoner, listening to a former inmate's account of life there, you realise how much the country has already accomplished.

The Capetonians I met were proud that South Africa hosted the World Cup - and hosted it so successfully and peacefully. The event brought infrastructure improvements, including better roads and transport and, of course, the magnificent new stadium. Now that the crowds have gone home and the weather is about to warm up, you can enjoy the legacy of 2010.

Getting there
South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) flies from Heathrow to Cape Town from £897 return; Clanwilliam Lodge (www.clanwilliamlodge.co.za) has double rooms from R900 (£80); Franschhoek Country House & Villas (www.fch.co.za) has doubles from R2,590 (£230) including breakfast; Mount Nelson (www.mountnelson.co.za) has superior doubles from R4,900 (£435), including breakfast and a free shuttle within a 10km radius. South African Tourism: www.southafrica.net

Jewish Capetown
● Most Jews arrived between the end of the 19th century and 1930, many from Lithuania and Latvia.
● There are now around 16,000 and some 20 synagogues, including three Reform, mainly in Sea Point.
● The South African Jewish Museum was opened by Nelson Mandela in 2000. Adjacent is the Grand Synagogue, South Africa's oldest, built in 1863. The Holocaust Museum is in the same complex.
● Kosher restaurants includ Café Riteve, next to Jewish Museum; Avron's Place, 19-33 Regent Road, Sea Point
● Steve Bolnick is a Jewish tour guide www.stevebolnicksafaris.com

What a Carrie on: Marrakesh just got hotter

Anthea Gerrie — Fri, 21 May 2010 14:23:52 +0100

It's no surprise to hear that Sarah Jessica Parker and her co-stars were spotted running riot with their wallets in Marrakesh recently while filming scenes for Sex and the City2. This most exotic of Moroccan cities is one of the great shopping meccas of the world, as well as a great place to dine, to steam in a hammam, to enjoy the local entertainment or to just generally hang out.

Now one can add a new diversion - following in the elegant footsteps of the Blahnik'd four around the hotspots. Ironically, to enjoy Marrakesh to the max, you really need comfortable shoes and, of course, lodgings which match your comfort zone.

This could rule out, as it did for the stars of SATC2, bedding down anywhere in the Medina, the bustling old town with the astonishing Djma el Fnaa at its heart.

This vast square is packed to the gills with henna-painters, story-tellers, musicians and snake-charmers, not to mention date-sellers and orange-juice vendors. As night advances they are joined, from dusk till midnight, by several dozen mobile restaurateurs who turn the place into a giant alfresco restaurant whose wares include lots of good salads and bread.

It's a thrilling scene, and until recently one that tourists were reluctant to turn their backs on when the lights went out. For the past decade, riads - the tradtitional townhouses built around cool, tranquil courtyards - have been all the rage, offering a tranquil home-from-home with all mod cons within the Medina itself.

But now contemporary boutique hotels, such as the stylish Bab and, indeed, modern riads, have reached the New Town, which has the sleepy, languid charm of a retro South of France - and the best shops.

Gentler souls may prefer a perch here - or in the Palmeraie date oasis 15 minutes out of town - to dodging, on a daily basis, the noise, dust and donkey-carts of the Medina.

Winston Churchill and other legendary figures of the early 20th century got around the Old Town vs New Town conundrum by lodging at La Mamounia, a New Town hotel on the edge of the Medina.

One of the world's great hotels, it recently reopened after a multi-million-pound refurbishment and Sarah Jessica was one of the first guests in.

She stayed in one of the hotel's own riads, closeted within its magnificent private gardens, which are always worth a stroll.

Then take tea and Moroccan pastries in the elegant lobby lounge which retains a sense of the art deco which formerly pervaded the whole hotel.

Rooms are now traditionally Moroccan in style - for which read heavy with dark wood - and eye-wateringly expensive. But booking through tour operators makes them just about affordable for a special treat. Conversely, for riads, visitors are best to book direct and make their own low-cost flight arragements.

Kim Cattrall and Kristin Davies chose to stay at Amanjena, the celebs' choice of the past decade. You'll see its pink sandstone domes in the movie, but this resort is generally a very private place of pink pavilions surrouned by great bodies of green water - mostly ornamental, given the profusion of private pools scattered around.

In-room goodies include burnooses - full-length Moroccan hoodies under which guests like to hide when taking dinner in the grounds. Another pricey option, Amanjena is also shlep from both the Old Town souks and New Town boutiques - though they have a brilliant shopping list and take guests wherever they wish by air-conditioned limo.

This shopping list - actually a list of great shops - may be how the Sex and the City stars wound up at Place Vendome, the luscious, Jewish-owned leather shop in the New Town. The couple who own this also own the charming boutique L'Orientaliste, just down the street - and also on the Amanjena list.

It sells lovely native perfumes made from orange blossom and other heady scents as well as made-to-order blousons crafted from the same buttersoft-leather as Place Vendome's enviably soft handbags. After hot-footing it there from their luxe billet, the girls went up the road to Birkemeyer, the the most famous leather emporium in Marrakesh, known for its Hermes-inspired knotted suede shawls and killer leather jackets.

Carpets and lanterns are both associated more closely with the souks which feature in the film, but very fine versions of the art of both the weaver and the metal-worker are on display in the New Town, and the trade-off for the higher charge is superior workmanship and divine, original design. Penelope Cruz, a SATC2 guest star, longed to view the fabulous brasswork of Yahya, a Brit who went native and switched from running London nightclubs to designing fabulously intricate lanterns and other objects designed to throw thrilling shadows.

Like Harrods and Neiman-Marcus, Cruz was turned away as Yahya closed his showroom (and his order books) in order to concentrate on bespoke orders from individuals. But now an expanded gallery is open and definitely worth a visit for the deep-pocketed.

Those who want to eat as well as shop in the New Town will find good French food with rather bad French live music at Villa Rosa, and okay Moroccan food with exuberant belly-dancers at Le Comptoir, one of Marrakesh's buzziest institutions.

Be warned, though - if you book a table for much earlier than 9.30pm, you may be through with dinner before the show begins.

Hot spots in the Old Town include Le Foundouk, where Kim Cattrall was spotted sipping a pina colada or three. It has good vibes but indifferent food. Carrie & co. would have done better at Dar Moha, where a Swiss-trained, Moroccan chef serves excellent fusion cuisine around the swimming pool in Pierre Balmaiin's old home.

Yacout, home of a former honorary British ambassador, is the place for a blow-out Moroccan feast in the most opulent of surroundings, with rose-filled fountains and haunting Gnaoui music setting the scene.

With exotic fare, enviable souvenirs and veritable palaces to sleep in, about the only obvious tourist attraction that Marrakesh lacks is a beach. Now even that has been brought to town by Nikki Beach, the Miami outfit which is colonising the coolest inland pockets of the world with a beach club experience.

Here, among the desert date trees of the Palmeraie, are blue water, swim-up bars and the fabulous draped gazebo featured in the SATC2 trailer. Reservations are essential to circumvent the door policy in place to keep out the riff-raff - though hen parties are always welcome.

It's worth mentioning one lovely place too public for movie stars to visit, but not to be missed by ordinary mortals. The Majorelle gardens were an artist's vision, maintained until his death, by Yves St Laurent. With their tranquil pathways and greenery punctuated by vibrant cobalt, lemon-yellow and lavender-blue planters, they are a visual joy not to be missed.

Always best enjoyed without the crowds, the gardens are good to explore late in the afternoon, when, with luck, the garden will be near-deserted. Outside, horse-driven caleches stand ready to take tourists for a gentle trot around the rose-bush lined, terracotta city walls, whose glow deepens from umber to scarlet as the sun gently sets. A ride like this ends a perfect day in a near perfect tourist city, which movie stars with privacy issues could never enjoy anywhere near much as ordinary visitors who have no need to hide themselves away.

Getting there

Kuoni (01306 747008. www.kuoni.co.uk) offers four nights b&b at La Mamounia including flights and transfers from £1,185 per person (based on two sharing). Ryanair (www.ryanair.com); easyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Atlas Blue (www.royalairmaroc.com) offer low-cost departures from Manchester, Bristol, Edinburgh and Nottingham as well as London (Luton and Gatwick). More information at www.marrakech.travel; 020 7437 0073

Jewish Marrakesh

Jews have been in Marrakesh since the destruction of the Second Temple, and there are several old synagogues and a Jewish cemetery within the “mellah” established in the Medina in the 16th century. A small modern community thrives in the New Town, which has three or four synagogues and a kosher restaurant, Le Viennois, within the Pullman le Mansour Eddhabi Hotel on the Avenue de France.

Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro

Wed, 10 Jun 2009 00:00:00 +0100

It is not only celebrities who can tackle Africa’s highest peak. Last autumn, I reached great heights on Mount Kilimanjaro, with the aid of photographer Paul Goldstein, and the Africa Walking Company – the group who helped the Comic Relief celebrities with their climb.

Kilimanjaro is affectionately called the ‘Roof of Africa’ for one reason. Her highest point, Uhuru Peak sits in splendid isolation, bathed in clouds at some 5,895 meters above sea-level - three miles above the level generally associated with holidays.

Nowhere else on Earth is it possible to climb a mountain on such a grand scale without an ice-pick or a frost-flecked beard. I have neither beard nor ice-pick and throughout my climb I reminded myself that summiting Kilimanjaro is a test of endurance, not climbing ability.

I prepared for the trip for over two months, but some of my fellow climbers had been preparing mentally, as well as physically for over a year. Cardio-vascular workouts in the gym as well as long walks were highly recommended to get me into peak condition. I also concentrated on breaking in my walking boots – one blister and it could have all been over. Whilst you do not have to be hugely fit, physical wellness is essential. Oh, and as I found out pretty early on, those attempting Kili must really like walking... as up to 17 hours a day are spent placing one foot in front of the other!

Travelling in a group of ten, each of us had our own reason to conquer the mountain. A banker, a civil servant, a PR manager, an IT manager, a physio, a charity worker, a recruitment consultant and rugby player. Mine was a personal ambition – part of my list of ‘things to do in my 30th year’.

We were joined by a small army of guides and assistant guides, as well as an assortment of cooks and porters. What is most impressive is that whilst I cite my ‘difficult moments’ in the communal tent, the porters had done the same journey as me, with a 15 kg load on their back, assembled and dissembled our tents and cooked dinner! We slept in two-man tents, although I was fortunate enough to have a tent to myself as a single girl. There are some times when it is best not to get too up close and personal with a stranger, and after a week of not washing, this was definitely one of those occasions. As the days went on and we reached new heights, the air became thinner and the snoring accelerated. So much that by day three, two of the guys in my group ended up in their own separate make-shift camp, some 20 or so metres from the rest of the climbers. Quality ear-plugs therefore are essential – you will need your sleep. The bathroom is a chemical portaloo which is carried up the mountain by a porter each day and then placed in the camp each evening. Charmingly named ‘poo with a view’, it was a luxury on the mountain where home comforts are scare. Another option is to find a well-concealed rock. Quilted bathroom paper is virtually a currency on the mountain.

Fortunately I did not have to carry my equipment myself, as I struggled even to carry my day-pack. My kit list consisted of several layers of warm clothing and thermals as well as t-shirts and shorts for day wear as temperatures soared above 30 degrees C in the day and dipped below zero at night. My one comfort was down ‘ugg’-style boots. Not for climbing, but for slipping my feet into after a long day on the mountain in boots ...bliss. I also found that scented oils helped enormously in the absence of hot running water and showergel... lavender to induce sleep and citrus to ward off insects and conceal the odour (of the rest of the group that is, not me).

We took the lesser-known Rongai Route, the northern trail, which passes through rainforest, alpine desert, then over a landscape which could only be described as lunar before climaxing at the ice-capped summit. Minor ailments such as bruised toes, blisters and altitude headaches were all forgotten when morning breaks and the sheer beauty of the mountain is revealed.

Our trip took six days and five nights which saw us strolling across beautiful trails, marching towards the jagged peaks of Mawenzi, the second of Kilimanjaro’s cones, followed by a day of crossing the saddle towards Kibo camp, a bleak, desolate site which is like the end of the earth. Kibo was our rest point before the final ascent.

The first four days were easy, only getting marginally more difficult. We whiled away the hours playing word games as we sauntered up the mountain, stopping to enjoy hearty meals and to point out the stunning scenery. We ended each day with an acclimatisation walk which prepared us for the next day. As we reached greater heights our sense of balance was compromised. One of the group Joe, a sturdy rugby player slipped on the scree and tumbled several metres down a switchback trail. Fortunately his landing was soft and he was uninjured, save a few scrapes, but we all learnt a valuable lesson about tackling the ridges at a gentle pace.

We were told that it is best to attempt the mountain at night, to reach the summit for sunrise. At night, Kilimanjaro is at her most enigmatic, and most menacing, due simply to her near invisibility. She appears as a bulky, impenetrable shadow. We climbed at night because there was no way that we’d handle it if we could see the enormity of what we were about to attempt.

On summit day, we went to bed after an early dinner and were roused at 11pm. At a level of 4,700 ft the air is painfully thin and we were urged not to make any sudden movements that might over-exert us.

Silence fell over the group as we began our climb and I remember looking back into the night to see a diagonal trail of shadows marching silently up the mountain, their headtorches lighting their path as if on a pilgrimage. A six-hour slog to Gilman’s point and I was almost delirious with exhaustion as I stumbled over invisible rocks, and slipped on the scree.

Finally, we reached Gilmans Point, at 5,685m, the stopping point, before we made the final push. It is an unwritten rule that you must not stop too long at Gilman’s in case you are discouraged by the couple of hours ahead before you reach Uhuru, the true peak.

The sun began to rise and we saw the glacial rim begin to light up as if on fire. The heat gave us new energy as we pursued Uhuru which finally seemed within touching distance.

The glacier was pure white and bright, just as Hemingway described. We were passed by climbers descending from the peak, their eyes had a haunted stare and their faces bloated.

Finally, I reached the famous sign and had my picture taken next to the highest point. We all made it – the perfect ten. I almost forgot to smile, all I could think about was getting to the bottom and filling my lungs with delicious oxygen.

One thing is for sure, I could not spend much longer than 15 minutes at the top. As I began my descent, I smiled as I pass the hoards of people heading in the opposite direction. I didn’t envy them for a moment. I know what they are letting themselves in for.

Fact File

Natalie Amos climbed to raise funds for the Exodus & Friends of Conservation Porter Education Project

Exodus, Friends of Conservation and the Africa Walking Company operate three schools to teach English during the rainy seasons. They also provide porters with skills to help them progress in the local tourism industry.

The 10 day Kilimanjaro Rongai Route itinerary costs from £1,362 per person including flights, accommodation and most meals. www.exodus.co.uk or 0845 863 9601

In a lava over Lanzarote, Playa Blanca

Kate Wickers — Thu, 07 May 2009 14:03:56 +0100

There can’t be that many two year olds who have burned their feet on a volcano. But my youngest son, Freddie, who is always kicking his shoes off and running at speed in places he shouldn’t be, is one. I’m glad to report his gorgeous little tootsies were fine, just the colour of a ripe Canarian tomato for a few hours after their close encounter with Timanfaya, Lanzarote’s largest and still smouldering volcano. And the episode has already become part of Freddie’s traveller’s tales.

But you can’t visit Lanzarote and not expect a little drama during your stay. After all, the island is swathed with syrupy black lava flows, mammoth boulders and vast red dust bowls, remnants of when Timanfaya last spewed up its guts back in the 18th century.

If a T-Rex suddenly materialised you wouldn’t be too shocked — it’s that kind of landscape and it is where Raquel Welch slipped in to her famous fur bikini to do battle with the dinosaurs in the film One Million Years BC.

For the past six years I’ve spent a week in February chasing away the winter blues at Playa Blanca. Although the third largest resort on Lanzarote, it is wonderfully relaxed, with a sheltered, crescent-shaped golden sand beach, an old port with a string of seafood restaurants and holiday-kit shops at one end, and a chic new marina, complete with a smattering of designer boutiques and a few trendy restaurants, at the other.

We stay at the Princesa Yaiza Suite Resort with its generously proportioned, two-bedroom, two-bathroom family suites, large enough for my three boys to kick a beach ball around in. We each have our reasons for wanting to return each year. For men it’s a few stolen moments floating in the Thalassotherapy Spa.

The kids love Kikoland, the free kids’ club, hosted by Kiko the duck (and, yes, some poor helper does have to dress up in a duck costume each day in temperatures reaching 90 degrees). While Neil looks forward to swimming lengths in the icy freshwater pool and tucking in to tasty sushi at the hotel’s Japanese restaurant. From here it’s just a few miles east to Papagayo Beach where you’ll find the loveliest, unblemished sands on the island. They’re a no-go with little ones in buggies due to the steep climb down the rocks, so rather than driving, get a taxi boat to drop you off and pick you up. Arriving by boat all adds to the sense of being castaways for the day and the kids will love playing pirates.

Because of the getting-back-to nature feel of the beach, you do get the sporadic naturist strutting their stuff, but I found “Oh look boys is that a shark out there in the water?” was enough of a diversion.

It’s a shame that the island hasn’t quite yet shaken off its “Lanzagrotty” label because, apart from a couple of cheap-as-chips resorts with the usual quota of discos and eggs-and-bacon cafés, there’s not much to turn your sun-kissed nose up at.

But it wasn’t the town planners who put a stop to the rot setting in. That was down to the native artist Cesar Manrique, who campaigned for 20 years for laws to prohibit the construction of high-rise buildings on the island.

Manrique also adorned the island with his curious, futuristic sculptures and created other worldly experiences by enhancing natural features such as the stunning Jameos del Agua.

We made our way down steps carved out of natural rock, accompanied by ethereal music, in to a cave of luxuriant foliage and then on to a second cave where a breath-taking, electric-blue lagoon makes a striking home for hundreds of tiny, blind, albino crabs.

Ben and Josh thought these minute crustaceans looked like twinkling stars as we marvelled at their luminosity. But the atmosphere was soon lost and the mood music drowned out by my boys laughing their heads off when Daddy momentarily became confused and walked straight in to the lagoon soaking his shoes and sending the poor little crabs scuttling away.

At the Jardin de Cactus I must have screamed, “Don’t touch!” to Freddie a hundred times as I was in no hurry to add “impaled on large cactus” to our catalogue of holiday mishaps. Another of Manrique’s creations, this pudding-basin garden has more than 10,000 specimens of the prickly flora, and a working windmill that produces gofio, a finely ground flour.

It’s quite a sight: the white-washed mill set against a sea of bright green cacti in all forms, from Mickey Mouse ears to caterpillars and sea urchins, rising from the blackest of soil. Back on the Manrique trail there’s also the Mirador del Rio, which gives dramatic views over the cliffs to the island of La Graciosa; and Fundacion Cesar Manrique, situated over a river of lava and built out of — what else — but five volcanic bubbles.

A trip to the Montanas del Fuego — or Mountains of Fire — at the National Volcano Park is a must, especially when travelling with children with over-active imaginations. The ever-present reminders that Timanfaya could erupt again, such as the angry vents that regularly hiss out steam and a ground hot enough to roast a chicken over (as Freddie discovered), thrilled my three boys.

They were particularly wide-eyed when a guide poured water into a fissure in the earth and seconds later a geyser erupted. During the half-hour coach tour that cuts through the lava tubes and gives a birds eye view of the craters, we marvelled at the lava and the way it had rippled so smoothly over the earth. We each had opinions as to what it looked like. But Ben’s was unbeatable: “Like liquorice flavour Mr Whippy ice-cream,” he declared.

Teguise town, the capital until 1852, is a charming place full of meandering cobbled streets, palm-fringed squares, and whitewashed buildings.

A sleepy hollow for much of the week, its streets come alive on Sundays, brimming over with craft stalls selling a variety of local and imported items from traditional lace tablecloths to fake Crocs, from cactus jam to timples (Canarian ukuleles). We supplied our boys with 10 euros each and they had a ball buying up a whole host of useless items (including the ukulele).

We’re all big tapas fans; even Freddie who can polish off a whole portion of tortilla and adores olives, so we fought greedily over a plate of locally produced cheeses and bread at the grandly named Palacio del Marques, just off the main square.

Lanzarote’s volcanic soil is remarkably yielding, with thousands of vines, each protected by a pretty horseshoe of stones, planted in mesmerising patterns across the land.

Salt pans are another familiar sight, and the mountains of white salt at Las Salinas de Janubio are dramatically juxtaposed with the black sands of Playa de Janubio. Much of the coast remains untamed, no more so than at Los Hervideros, an inlet where waves smash together in a cauldron of bubbling surf. And the eerie, luminous green lagoon at El Golfo, formed from half of a volcanic cone, is spectacular at sunset.

But finally, if you still need convincing that Lanzarote is a treat, head for Puerto Calero, where the King of Spain regularly moors his yacht and where gorgeous people gather to pose on the terrace of Restaurant Amura.

Park your hire car out of sight and mingle. My three boys squabbled happily for hours about which Sunseeker they’d cruise off in given the chance, while Neil and I tucked in to fresh fish and papas arugadas — wrinkled potatoes — tiny baked spuds rolled in rock salt. Believe me, February doesn’t get much better than this.

Travel facts

Monarch Airlines (www.flights.monarch.co.uk) fly from Gatwick to Arrecife in Lanzarote from £110 return. The Princesa Yaiza Suite Resort (www.princesayaiza.com; 0034 928519222) has double rooms from 138 euros (£123) per night. Cadogan Holidays (www.cadoganholidays.com; 0845 615 4390), offer 7-night packages at the Princesa Yaiza Suite Resort from £551 per person (based on two sharing) including breakfast and flights. Autos Reisen Lanzarote (www.autoreisen.es) offers car hire from around £80 for seven days.

Tunisia: An island fling in Djerba

Dana Gloger — Fri, 22 Aug 2008 00:00:00 +0100

We find cocktails, culture and a very unusual festival in Tunisia

Given the current state of our summer, it is reassuring to know that in just two and a half hours you could be basking on a beautiful African beach. And given that that beach is in Tunisia, where the temperatures tend to stay high throughout the year, you could top-up your tan any time in the year.

While Tunisia's spectacular coastline is studded with a range of resorts, complemented by museums, sites of historical interest and golf courses, one of the country's most popular destinations, Djerba, is also the one steeped in Jewish history.

With its white sandy beaches and laid-back atmosphere, the island of Djerba began attracting British tourists in the 1970s. It is still more popular with other nationalities (notably Germans and French) but that is probably due to the absence of directs flights from there from the UK.

To get there, I had to take a one-hour internal flight from the capital, Tunis. Since one of my travelling companions was an avid Star Wars fans, a must-see was Tataouine, where the original film was shot.

One of many ksars - ancient fortified villages carved into the mountains - Tataouine may be the most famous thanks to its Hollywood connections, but Ksar Ouled Dabab and Ksar Hadadahad more character and charm.

One of Djerba's highlights is Pink Flamingo Island, a 45-minute boat ride off the Djerba coast. Although May is the wrong time of year to see flamingos - the best time is October-November and February-March - it is still well worth a visit. Completely secluded, it has pristine, white sand beaches and sea of the deepest emerald green.

The focus of my visit, however, was one of Djerba's cultural highlights, the annual Jewish festival of El Ghriba which has been a landmark on the island since the seventh century BCE and is a place of Jewish pilgrimage every year on Lag B'Omer - usually in May - attracting visitors from around the world.

The festival is held at the historic El Ghriba Synagogue, in the Jewish quarter which used to be known as Hara Seghira - meaning small ghetto - but is now officially renamed Erriadh.

Though a synagogue has stood on the site for almost 2,000 years, the present synagogue buildings date from the 1920s. Outside, they are traditional white and blue, typical of the local style, but the interior is brightly decorated with intricate mosaics, painted arches and pillars, glittering silver plaques and the melted wax from hundreds of candles.

Ghriba, after whom the festival is named, was a woman, giving the festival a strong feminist slant, and many of the thousands of pilgrims are women who come to ask favours of Ghriba.

Inside the synagogue, after removing my shoes and covering my head, I was offered dried apricots and sugared almonds by members of the local community. For those who wish to participate, part of the festival involves writing their name on an egg, which is left overnight in a cave behind the synagogue.

The festival begins with a noisy auction conducted in Arabic or French and accompanied by drums, dancing and shouting. In the courtyard local traders sell sweetmeats, refreshments, jewellery, clothing and handicrafts.

At the heart of the celebration is the large silver menorah which is decorated with silverware and hundreds of multicoloured silk scarves and paraded around the village followed by musicians, pilgrims and locals dancing, ululating, swaying and clapping.

At the end of the procession there was a short service and we then joined other visitors and members of the community in the courtyard where there are more refreshments and more singing and dancing.
After the festival, I decided to dedicate my last day in Djerba to sampling the leisure facilities, the spa at my hotel and topping up my tan.

First stop was the beautiful, tranquil Djerba Golf Club, with its three nine-hole courses, surrounded by sea and palm trees. Back at the hotel, the five-star Yadis Thalasso Golf Hotel (spacious rooms with sun-drenched balconies perfect for catching the last of the day's rays) I decided to sample the sea-water treats at its spa.

My treatment began with an underwater massage in a whirlpool bath with high-pressure water jets to aid circulation, then a massage followed by a rest with a cup of fresh mint tea.

After briefly sampling the Turkish bath, I headed to the pool to cool down. The sunbathing area is spacious, so guests can always find an uncrowded spot. The poolside bar is expensive, but serves a selection of cocktails, as well as beers, wine and soft drinks.

As a vegetarian, I had no problem finding delicious things to eat in Tunisia, although there is plenty for fish- and meat-eaters, too. There were plenty of choices at breakfast, with fresh fruit, juices, cheeses, breads and freshly-cooked eggs, while at lunch and dinner there were always veggie dishes available, including local specialities such as brik, pastry filled with egg and potato, and mechouia, a salad of grilled peppers tomatoes and onions. Makroudh, a sweet pasty stuffed with dates, honey and sesame seeds, was one of the delicious local desserts.

Food, sun and beaches aside, one of Tunisia's greatest assets is its people. Those I met were universally helpful and friendly.

As a society, Tunisia is also fascinating - a Muslim country that is remarkably liberal. Although the history of the Jews in Tunisia hasn't always been perfect (in the 12th century they were expected to convert to Islam or flee), since the mid-19th century, Jews have been permitted to freely observe Judaism and members of the 2,000-year-old Djerba Jewish community live freely alongside their Muslim and Christian neighbours.
Along with the fact that Tunisia is also relatively cheap, it is just one more reason to visit this fascinating country - for the Lag B'Omer festival or merely to escape our chilly weather.

Travel facts

Tunisair (020 7734 7644; www.tunisair.com) has flights from London to Tunis from £170 return. Flights with Seven Air (00216 7194 2323) from Tunis to Djerba from £45 return. Yadis Thalasso Golf Hotel (00216 7083 8330; www.yadis.com) has double rooms from £40 per person per night (based on two sharing) including breakfast. The 2009 El Ghriba festival is on DATE T/C. Further information from: www.cometotunisia.co.uk; 020 7224 5561.

Jewish Tunisia

- Jews have lived in Tunisia since Roman times. In the 12th century they were forced to convert to Islam or leave. Since 1857 have been free to observe Judaism
- In 1948 the Jewish population was 105,000. Today it is over 2000
l During the Nazi occupation, 5,000 Jews were sent to concentration camps,
- Khaled Abdel-wahhab, who hid Jewish families during the occupation, was the first Arab to be named Righteous Among the Nations by Yad Vashem.
- The El Ghriba is the country's most famous synagogue. The site is thought to have had a synagogue on it for almost 2,000 years